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Italian Food

February 17, 1994 | MICHAEL KRIKORIAN
When a friend recently suggested we eat at Alejo's, I thought of the crowd of people I have seen there, frequently snaking out onto the sidewalk in front of the place. So I quoted that esteemed philosopher, Yogi Berra: "Nobody goes there anymore; it's too crowded." But we did go to Westchester, endured a brief wait and found out what the crowd was there for: Alejo's generous plates of Italian favorites at reasonable prices.
October 22, 2012 | By Eric Pincus
The Lakers recently cut two players (Ronnie Aguilar and Reeves Nelson) with more to come as the 18-man roster needs to be trimmed to at least 15 by opening night. Guard Chris Douglas-Roberts, a last-minute invite to camp, may have made enough of an impression on the Lakers to make the regular season roster. Douglas-Roberts spent last year overseas in Italy playing for Virtus Bologna. His recent interview with Mike Trudell, of , included a comment that caused a bit of a firestorm among the die-hard Italian basketball community: "We ate pasta every day. EVERY day. That's what it is over there.
The streets around Chinatown once housed a busy Italian community. Now hardly a trace remains. The Anthony Macaroni Co. on North Spring Street is gone, and the Italian delis that were scattered through the area have vanished. When I was a kid, dinner at Little Joe's on North Broadway always ended with a visit to the deli in front.
August 10, 2012
Evan Kleiman is the glue that holds the Los Angeles food scene together. She has been host of KCRW's Good Food radio show for 15 years, interviewing more than 6,000 guests, ranging from celebrated chefs to local farmers. She was also chef of the Melrose Avenue institution Angeli Caffe for 28 years and one of the first proponents of rustic Italian cooking in Los Angeles. Her improvisational style, while rooted in the cucina povera of Italy, shows her reliance on simple ingredients and economical ingenuity to produce delicious and satisfying food with a fresh, honest, pared down aesthetic that people intuitively understand and appreciate.
November 12, 1992 | MARCIA CONE and THELMA SNYDER, Cone and Snyder are cookbook authors. and
Italian home cooking doesn't have to take hours. We've chosen some recipes that are economical, fairly simple and, with the microwave, quick to prepare.
We peeked inside Da' Pasquale, took deep breaths, then squeezed through the packed dining room to the reservation counter. It was a Wednesday night and this small Beverly Hills bistro was doing a business that any restaurant would envy. People sat elbow-to-elbow at little tables. Waiters and waitresses shimmied through the tight maze with pizzas, pastas, wine, bread. At least three efficient, lovely young women were working very hard in the visible kitchen.
August 20, 1989 | CHARLES PERRY
The maitre d' greeted us suavely and with a faintly inquisitive air, but there was the suggestion of a caged panther about him. Here he was in a little place at the corner of Pico and Robertson. He'd underscored the green and white decor with a green awning out on the sidewalk. He'd changed the name of the place from Buona Sera, which means "good evening," to Il Tigullio, which sounds worlds more elegant, though it seems to mean "the little hut."
November 10, 1989 | Max Jacobson
A few weeks back I reviewed an excellent new Italian restaurant in Newport Beach called Bagatta8 and was fairly unreserved in my praise. This week, while dining in Baci, a small, charming Italian restaurant in Huntington Beach, I heard the chef grumble about the article to the customers at the next table, completely unaware of my presence. "Bagatta's only been open a few weeks," he said, "and just like that they get reviewed."
January 26, 1990 | CHARLES PERRY
How does the old Madeo in Beverly Hills differ from the new Madeo in San Pedro? Simple. The old Madeo shares a building with a major talent agency, so you eat with fast-talking, Maalox-chewing agents. The new Madeo is in a marina, so you eat with boat owners who've decided to sail in for dinner (slips are available). Most of all, the new Madeo is far grander than the old. It's a big $3-million building with seven private banquet rooms and a whole lot of plate-glass windows.
November 22, 1987 | BETSY BALSLEY, Betsy Balsley is The Times' food editor.
ITALIAN-BORNELISA Celli is one of those rare, multi-talented people whose boundless energy allows them to develop careers in several fields. She is an actress, a writer and a slim (size 6), superb cook. Author of five books on Italian cooking, including the popular "The Pasta Diet," Celli has recently published "Italian Light Cooking" ($19.95, Prentice-Hall Inc.), her latest effort for those who love good Italian food.
May 5, 2012 | By S. Irene Virbila, Los Angeles Times Restaurant Critic
It's been years since Alto Palato closed, yet I can't drive down La Cienega past STK steakhouse without remembering the late Mauro Vincenti's last restaurant. I still see Vincenti in a cashmere golf sweater fussing over details. Danilo Terribili choosing the wines and running the dining room. Fredy Escobar in the kitchen. And Gino Rindone (now a manager at Angelini Osteria) manning the espresso machine and turning out authentic gelato. Gone, all gone. For the last few months, though, Alto Palato fans have slowly been finding their way to the new A1 Cucina Italiana on Robertson Boulevard, where some of the old team is re-creating the spirit of the old restaurant.
January 12, 2012 | By S. Irene Virbila, Los Angeles Times Restaurant Critic
Andre Guerrero is one hardworking chef with half a dozen restaurants to his credit, most successes. Though he came up in fine dining, the times are changing, and he's gradually moved to the casual, inexpensive side of the spectrum. When his most ambitious project, Max Restaurant, foundered, he turned it into Marché LA, serving small plates. Smart move, even if he was a bit too early an adopter: The idea didn't go over big in Sherman Oaks. But Señor Fred, his Mexican restaurant there, is still turning out big plates of enchiladas and potent margaritas.
January 13, 2011 | By S. Irene Virbila, Los Angeles Times Restaurant Critic
Snap. Snap. Snap. In my mind's eye, I see a layout for a design or architecture magazine. The salvaged wood boards, some silvery and weathered, a few whitewashed, used for the restaurant's exterior. The wide barn doors leading out to the courtyard in front. Rough timbered walls and a wood-clad high-pitched ceiling. Lampshades stitched from baker's linen. Industrial sewing lamps peering out from the walls over banquettes covered in a large-scale striped herringbone. The new Eveleigh on the Sunset Strip is an anomaly in a neighborhood known more for arch French or Italian chic than anything resembling this essay on the salvaged.
August 2, 2010 | Jessica Gelt
You have to know tradition to break with it. Which is why Fabrizio Di Gianni and Enzo Sanseverino, two old-world Italians full of New World bravado, are turning out such deliciously rebellious food at their new restaurant, 81/2 Taverna in Studio City. Angus beef and foie gras burger, anyone? Born and raised in Turin and Naples, respectively, Di Gianni, 35, and Sanseverino, 34, met in Los Angeles and bonded over a passion for cooking. Di Gianni revered his grandmother's hearth and her intricate sauces, while Sanseverino began serving coffee and pastries at 10 and entered culinary school at 15. "At 13, Enzo started working as a pastry chef, and he ate a lot of pizza," Di Gianni says of his friend's formative years in Naples.
January 30, 2008 | S. Irene Virbila, Times Staff Writer
It's the hot new Italian in town. Restaurant, that is. And in L.A., that usually means a formal attitude and northern Italian cuisine. But Terroni is a raucous, high-spirited place, and the kitchen is turning out southern Italian food heavy on the garlic, anchovies and hot peppers.
August 16, 2007 | Mark Sachs
EVAN HANDLER has guest-starred in scores of top-drawer TV series (perhaps most memorably as Charlotte's Jewish husband on "Sex and the City"), and he's a regular on Showtime's "Californication," starring David Duchovny. But what really jumps out from his résumé is this mid-'80s entry: "Dropped out of 'Biloxi Blues' on Broadway after being diagnosed with leukemia." Handler wrote a 1996 book about the experience ("Time on Fire") and has another one coming out next year. He lives with gusto in L.A.
November 15, 1992 | MARY MacVEAN, ASSOCIATED PRESS
There was a time, only a few decades ago, when spaghetti and meatballs was exotic, and a time, a little later, when fettuccine Alfredo was daring. Today, Italian food could hardly be more American. "We've come to the point in this country where Italian has become the most important cuisine," said Lynn Rossetto Kasper, author of "The Splendid Table", one of at least half a dozen Italian cookbooks published this fall. "It's the most democratic," she said.
December 30, 1990 | RUTH REICHL
I don't have to look outside to know what time of year it is. All I have to do is sit here and open my mail. The rest of the year, most of my letters go something like this: "Dear Restaurant Critic: My grandmother will celebrate her 102nd birthday next month, and I'd like to take her out for a really elegant celebration. She doesn't hear so well anymore, so we want to take her to a quiet restaurant.
April 6, 2006 | S. Irene Virbila, Times Staff Writer
SOUTHERN Italian cuisine somehow doesn't get much respect in L.A., where it's represented, mostly, by places where quantity triumphs over quality and southern Italy becomes a cartoon of buxom Gina Lollobrigida and Sophia Loren types, red-and-white checked tablecloths, a sappy soundtrack and pasta served in giant bowls in gallons of red sauce.
April 5, 2006 | Barbara Hansen, Times Staff Writer
GIADA DE LAURENTIIS' first book, "Everyday Italian," based on her popular Food Network show, has been holding steady on bestseller lists since its publication last year. Just arriving in bookstores is a follow-up, "Giada's Family Dinners" (Clarkson Potter, $32.50).
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