May 5, 2012 |
It's been years since Alto Palato closed, yet I can't drive down La Cienega past STK steakhouse without remembering the late Mauro Vincenti's last restaurant. I still see Vincenti in a cashmere golf sweater fussing over details. Danilo Terribili choosing the wines and running the dining room. Fredy Escobar in the kitchen. And Gino Rindone (now a manager at Angelini Osteria) manning the espresso machine and turning out authentic gelato. Gone, all gone. For the last few months, though, Alto Palato fans have slowly been finding their way to the new A1 Cucina Italiana on Robertson Boulevard, where some of the old team is re-creating the spirit of the old restaurant.
January 12, 2012 |
Andre Guerrero is one hardworking chef with half a dozen restaurants to his credit, most successes. Though he came up in fine dining, the times are changing, and he's gradually moved to the casual, inexpensive side of the spectrum. When his most ambitious project, Max Restaurant, foundered, he turned it into Marché LA, serving small plates. Smart move, even if he was a bit too early an adopter: The idea didn't go over big in Sherman Oaks. But Señor Fred, his Mexican restaurant there, is still turning out big plates of enchiladas and potent margaritas.
January 13, 2011 |
Snap. Snap. Snap. In my mind's eye, I see a layout for a design or architecture magazine. The salvaged wood boards, some silvery and weathered, a few whitewashed, used for the restaurant's exterior. The wide barn doors leading out to the courtyard in front. Rough timbered walls and a wood-clad high-pitched ceiling. Lampshades stitched from baker's linen. Industrial sewing lamps peering out from the walls over banquettes covered in a large-scale striped herringbone. The new Eveleigh on the Sunset Strip is an anomaly in a neighborhood known more for arch French or Italian chic than anything resembling this essay on the salvaged.
August 2, 2010 |
You have to know tradition to break with it. Which is why Fabrizio Di Gianni and Enzo Sanseverino, two old-world Italians full of New World bravado, are turning out such deliciously rebellious food at their new restaurant, 81/2 Taverna in Studio City. Angus beef and foie gras burger, anyone? Born and raised in Turin and Naples, respectively, Di Gianni, 35, and Sanseverino, 34, met in Los Angeles and bonded over a passion for cooking. Di Gianni revered his grandmother's hearth and her intricate sauces, while Sanseverino began serving coffee and pastries at 10 and entered culinary school at 15. "At 13, Enzo started working as a pastry chef, and he ate a lot of pizza," Di Gianni says of his friend's formative years in Naples.
HOME & GARDEN
June 12, 2008
PHIL ROSENTHAL and Monica Horan have had a love affair with Italy and la cucina Italiana ever since they first flew there as couriers for DHL in the early '80s. They are especially enamored of the cooking done in the wood-fired ovens once found outside so many farmhouses across the Italian countryside. These ovens still show little variation on the original Roman design: a round, domed chamber built out of brick or local stone and vented in front.
January 30, 2008 |
It's the hot new Italian in town. Restaurant, that is. And in L.A., that usually means a formal attitude and northern Italian cuisine. But Terroni is a raucous, high-spirited place, and the kitchen is turning out southern Italian food heavy on the garlic, anchovies and hot peppers.