December 21, 1986 |
French Family Cooking by Francoise Bernard (Macmillan: $25, 253 pp., illustrated). Showoff restaurant cooking is one thing. Home cooking is another, and by no means inferior. Although the intricacies of contemporary French chefs may lie beyond the scope or desire of many, French home cooking can be simple, practical and well endowed with flair. Francoise Bernard, whose book has been translated from the French for American readers, does not allow purism to inhibit performance. The cook who might be intimidated by a classic bouillabaisse recipe that specifies 10 types of Mediterranean fish and shellfish will delight in her simplification.