October 17, 2013 |
For her first stint in the director's chair, "Juno" screenwriter Diablo Cody has concocted a modern-day "Alice Through the Looking Glass," with none of the danger or wit. "Paradise" follows a home-schooled, Jesus-loving Montana lass who loses her faith and heads to Sin City to experience the corrupting power of real life. The not-so-wild ride is essentially sappy, however much of Cody's self-consciously barbed dialogue its characters are forced to utter. As the symbolically named Lamb, Julianne Hough is sweetly intent on a firsthand encounter with "your basic abominations.
April 17, 2008
Regarding "The Gastro Economist: Glendale, the Kebab's Home Away From Home" [March 13]: One you didn't include is Elena's Greek Armenian Cuisine on Glendale Boulevard, which serves mouth-watering lamb kebab plates under 10 bucks. An added bonus is the taped Greek and Armenian music playing in the background. David Tulanian Los Angeles
August 27, 2008 |
I opened a bottle of Atalayas de Golban the other night to have with a rack of lamb. The combination of Tinto Fino (the local Tempranillo) and lamb is classic and sublime. And this Ribera del Duero from Madrid wine merchant Miguel Sanchez and winemaker Bertrand Sourdais is a beauty. The grapes come from Sanchez's second property, Atalayas de Golban (his first is Dominio de Atauta -- famous and much more expensive). Atalayas comes in at a terrific price for such a graceful and irresistible Ribera del Duero.
April 15, 2009 |
When I tasted this wine and then looked at the price, the two didn't match up. This gorgeous and elegant red from Terra de Verema in the Vilella Baixa del Priorat region of Spain could easily cost twice the price. Instead, for about $30, you get a stunning Carinyena (Carignan) with a touch of Garnacha and Syrah. Spicy and lush, the 2006 Triumvirat is beautifully balanced, even elegant. And it's smooth as silk, almost Burgundian in style.
June 16, 2011 |
Life at Kabab Grill revolves not, as its name suggests, around a grill for its kebabs but around an imposing stone oven. The 4-by-6-foot custom-made behemoth dominates the open kitchen at this otherwise modest 2-month-old cafe in Palms. "Last week we roasted a whole stuffed lamb in it for someone's party," owner Firas Tar, who comes from Syria, tells a customer, clearly proud of his oven's prowess. But whole roast lamb isn't on the daily menu at Kabab Grill. The oven's cardinal purpose is to bake safeeha , a thin Syrian-style flatbread loaded with savory toppings.
March 31, 2011 |
Among food-obsessed Angelenos, shawarma isn't as much a point of contention as, say, ramen or carne asada . At too many of the city's Levantine restaurants, flaccid, flavorless strands of meat pass as properly shaved shawarma almost without protest. But there are few pleasures as hypnotic as flame-licked shawarma . Behold the spit stacked with lamb or beef or chicken spinning in slow, mesmerizing circles, flecks of caramelized fat basting the meat below. In deft hands, even the bluntest knife will shear the meat as if carving clay.
January 18, 2013 |
Freekeh -- it's the grain pronounced free-ka and in Aramaic means "the rubbed one," a reference to rubbing off the roasted husk to reveal the grain, still green because it has to be harvested when young. The rubbed one is the loved one: Described as a cousin to bulgur wheat and native to Lebanon , Jordan, Syria and Egypt, it's the latest hip superfood showing up on menus such as at Jessica Koslow's Sqirl Cafe in Silver Lake. Koslow serves her freekeh with pickled blueberries, chanterelles and goat cheese.
CALIFORNIA | LOCAL
February 11, 2000
Robert Scheer's Feb. 8 commentary, "Why Was Lee Indicted, and Not Deutch?" reconfirmed what our organization has said all along. When Wen Ho Lee was arrested and indicted last October, the Chinese American Civil Rights Organization cautioned the government that Lee should be treated on the principle of equality and that the government must thoroughly investigate and prosecute with equal diligence anyone found to have committed similar crimes as Lee...
July 21, 2011 |
At David Padilla and Maria Ramos' Oaxacan restaurant Gish Bac, the weekends are made for goat and lamb barbecue. A third-generation barbacoa specialist, Ramos began learning the trade of goat and lamb barbecue as a 10-year-old in Oaxaca's Sunday market in Tlacolula — one of Mexico's longest-running markets — where her family still operates a stand. The couple came to Los Angeles in 1992 and immediately began catering private events. This went on until a year ago, when a growing chorus of requests from attendees at these gatherings demanded more regular access to Ramos' barbacoa . Padilla and Ramos found a restaurant location in the heart of Mid-City, and Gish Bac (roughly, "from Tlacolula")
July 1, 2010 |
The fatit hummus at Olive Tree is a dish of geological depth, a dip of distinct strata. Slicked across its top is a layer of yogurt puddled with olive oil and dusted with cumin and paprika. Pine nuts dot the surface like pale pebbles. Embedded in the warm hummus below are fragments of crunchy pita. It's an elaborate rendition of the Middle Eastern meze , but not an untraditional one. At Olive Tree, the fatit hummus is both staple and symbol, representative of a certain kind of detailed and familial Levantine cooking lost among the monotony of low-cost shwarma shacks.