Main Courses

"Are we, by any chance, going to Voda, that posh little bar somewhere along here?" the driver asked as we turned onto the 1400 block of 2nd Street. "It used to be a funky bar, but when I popped my head in one night to say hello to the bartender, that whole scene was gone. Unbelievable. Now it's so upscale it looks as if it dropped in from Manhattan. Beautiful martinis, though." That's the place.

Ori Menashe cooks food that is purely Italian, without ornamentation or needless complication. LOCATION 2121 E. 7th Place, Los Angeles, (213) 514-5724, BestiaLA.com. PRICES Snacks, $6-$8; antipasti, $9-$16; pizza, $15-$25; pasta, $16-$25; main courses, $23-$29; desserts, $9-$12. DETAILS Open 6-11 p.m. Tuesdays to Thursdays and Sundays, 6 p.m. to midnight Fridays and Saturdays. Credit cards accepted. Full bar. Valet parking.

Settling into a heavily padded patio chair at Opah in Aliso Viejo, a dinner companion looked around and said in surprise: "I thought this was going to be a Greek restaurant." The name "Opah" does indeed suggest the traditional exclamation made when Greeks dance or smash plates when they're in a party mood. It also is the name of a dark-fleshed ocean fish also known as the moonfish, which in Hawaii is said to bring good luck to fishermen.

Alma Talented young chef Ari Taymor is making the transition from pop-up to real restaurant. This could be the start of something big. LOCATION 952 S. Broadway, Los Angeles, (213) 444-0984, alma-la.com. PRICES Snacks, $5-$6; starters, $9-$13; main courses $15-$25; desserts, $9. Tuesday prix fixe menu, $45. DETAILS Dinner Tues.-Sat., 6 p.m. to 10:30 p.m. AE, MC, V accepted. BYOB. Lot parking just north of restaurant. Vegetarian options available.

Ori Menashe cooks food that is purely Italian, without ornamentation or needless complication. LOCATION 2121 E. 7th Place, Los Angeles, (213) 514-5724, BestiaLA.com. PRICES Snacks, $6-$8; antipasti, $9-$16; pizza, $15-$25; pasta, $16-$25; main courses, $23-$29; desserts, $9-$12. DETAILS Open 6-11 p.m. Tuesdays to Thursdays and Sundays, 6 p.m. to midnight Fridays and Saturdays. Credit cards accepted. Full bar. Valet parking.

A restaurant devoted to mole, Rocio's treats the sauce as an art form. And don't forget the cactus tortillas. LOCATION 8255 Sunland Blvd., Sun Valley, (818) 252-6415, rociosmoledelosdioses.com. PRICES Main courses, $16.99-$20.99. DETAILS Open 11 a.m. to 3 p.m. and 5 p.m. to 9 p.m. Monday, Wednesday and Thursday; 11 a.m. to 10 p.m. Friday and Saturday; 11 a.m. to 9 p.m. Sunday. Credit cards accepted. Beer and wine. Lot parking. Takeout. Also at 6242 Maywood Ave., Bell, (323)

The Federal Bar Where: 5303 Lankershim Blvd., North Hollywood When: Sunday to Wednesday 11:30 a.m. to midnight; Thursday to Saturday 11:30 a.m. to 2 a.m. Cost: Beer, wine and cocktails $3 to $12; burgers, salads and sides $5 to $11; main courses $14 to $18 Info: (818) 980-2555; http://www.thefederalbar.com

If you go Latitude Eight Thai Grill, 11 W. Boston St., No. 5, Chandler, Ariz.; (480) 722-0560, latitude-eight.com . Chicken yellow curry $11. House of Tricks, 114 E. 7th St., Tempe, Ariz.; (480) 968-1114, http://www.houseoftricks.com . Main courses from $22. Tuck Shop, 2245 N. 12th St., Phoenix; (602) 364-2980, tuckinphx.com . Rito's, 907 N. 14th St., Phoenix; (602) 262-9842. Cibo, 603 N. 5th Ave., Phoenix; (602)

Starry Kitchen in Tiara Café One of Los Angeles' favorite pop-ups pops up again - except when it doesn't. Call first to be sure, and to reserve the chili crab. LOCATION 127 E. 9th St., Los Angeles, (213) 814-1123, starrykitchen.com PRICES Appetizers, $5-$11; main courses, $11.50-$22.95, more for crab; desserts, $5-$6. DETAILS: Open 6 to 10 p.m. Tuesday to Saturday. Beer, wine and sake. Validated lot parking.

Starry Kitchen in Tiara Café One of Los Angeles' favorite pop-ups pops up again - except when it doesn't. Call first to be sure, and to reserve the chili crab. LOCATION 127 E. 9th St., Los Angeles, (213) 814-1123, starrykitchen.com PRICES Appetizers, $5-$11; main courses, $11.50-$22.95, more for crab; desserts, $5-$6. DETAILS: Open 6 to 10 p.m. Tuesday to Saturday. Beer, wine and sake. Validated lot parking.

A restaurant devoted to mole, Rocio's treats the sauce as an art form. And don't forget the cactus tortillas. LOCATION 8255 Sunland Blvd., Sun Valley, (818) 252-6415, rociosmoledelosdioses.com. PRICES Main courses, $16.99-$20.99. DETAILS Open 11 a.m. to 3 p.m. and 5 p.m. to 9 p.m. Monday, Wednesday and Thursday; 11 a.m. to 10 p.m. Friday and Saturday; 11 a.m. to 9 p.m. Sunday. Credit cards accepted. Beer and wine. Lot parking. Takeout. Also at 6242 Maywood Ave., Bell, (323)