Moorea

Jerry Hulse's "Tahiti, the Temptress" (Sept. 6) recalled memories of our three weeks' visit there in 1966 when we explored Tahiti, spent a week on Moorea with the Bali Hai Boys, then a week at their place in Raitea, followed by a final week at the glorious Hotel Bora Bora. I can appreciate Michener's enthusiasm for beautiful Bora Bora, but I, too, prefer Moorea. FRANK ALEXANDER Rancho Palos Verdes

It's 7 a.m., and from outside our cabin we can see the peak of a small mountain looming in the distance. Our ship glides effortlessly over the deep blue water, a salty mist lightly enveloping our senses. Soon the green mountain's craggy features come clearly into view, becoming recognizable as Mt. Pahia, the defining geographical feature of the French Polynesian island of Bora-Bora. I briefly imagine that it's 1769, and Capt.

Some of the best bargains in travel now are in destinations abroad that depend on planes to deliver tourists. For instance, a week in Moorea in French Polynesia starts at $699 per person, double occupancy, including air fare, in a package sold by Costa Mesa-based Discover Wholesale Travel. By comparison, the same package started at $798 last year, said a spokeswoman.

Independent television producer Linda Hope has just been asked to envision a project she might do with her father, comedian Bob Hope. Off the top of her head, she weaves a scenario: It would be about an aging man who makes desperate attempts to attract a younger woman to boost his failing ego. "I would like to see him expose the softer, gentler side of himself," she says excitedly. "I would like to see him take risks.

Some of the best bargains in travel now are in destinations abroad that depend on planes to deliver tourists. For instance, a week in Moorea in French Polynesia starts at $699 per person, double occupancy, including air fare, in a package sold by Costa Mesa-based Discover Wholesale Travel. By comparison, the same package started at $798 last year, said a spokeswoman.

This island is no longer just an excursion from Papeete, the capital city of French Polynesia on the main island of Tahiti, a dozen miles by ferry across the Sea of the Moon. Moorea has long had its own devoted contingent of travelers from around the world. Now, many others, who have just made day trips in the past, are booking themselves into the resort hotels, guest houses and the renovated Club Med of Moorea--and are taking the 45-minute ferry ride for a day visit to Tahiti.

Exotic tropical forests, mysterious caves, waterfalls and ancient stone ruins--these are some of the delights of trekking Tahiti and Moorea, two islands in French Polynesia with some terrific pathways. True, few visitors think of pathways when they think of Polynesia, but Tahiti and its neighbor isle of Moorea have some good mountain hikes to complement their stunning beaches. Characteristic of Polynesia, these islands have jagged volcanic formations, deep valleys and cascading waterfalls.

The islands were just like I imagined from seeing "South Pacific" as a 14-year-old. They're romantic because they don't feel overly civilized, yet you don't have to worry about drinking the water. My wife, Betty, and I went into the interior jungle and saw giant orchids and rubber trees. The topography is so ancient. You feel like you're at the beginning and the end of everything. DISCOVERY: We visited a vanilla bean plantation and learned how it is grown.

The islands were just like I imagined from seeing "South Pacific" as a 14-year-old. They're romantic because they don't feel overly civilized, yet you don't have to worry about drinking the water. My wife, Betty, and I went into the interior jungle and saw giant orchids and rubber trees. The topography is so ancient. You feel like you're at the beginning and the end of everything. DISCOVERY: We visited a vanilla bean plantation and learned how it is grown.

It's 7 a.m., and from outside our cabin we can see the peak of a small mountain looming in the distance. Our ship glides effortlessly over the deep blue water, a salty mist lightly enveloping our senses. Soon the green mountain's craggy features come clearly into view, becoming recognizable as Mt. Pahia, the defining geographical feature of the French Polynesian island of Bora-Bora. I briefly imagine that it's 1769, and Capt.

One afternoon not long ago, my wife and I were coming out of the Caprice des Iles, a pleasant, casual island restaurant, after lunch on the veranda. The blue South Pacific was twinkling under a gentle breeze. The sun was so bright, the air so humid, the hills so green and overgrown that photosynthesis threatened to become audible. Amid this seeming paradise, our waiter sidled over to me like a racetrack tout and said in suave, French-accented English: "We have live music tonight. American girl.

Jerry Hulse's "Tahiti, the Temptress" (Sept. 6) recalled memories of our three weeks' visit there in 1966 when we explored Tahiti, spent a week on Moorea with the Bali Hai Boys, then a week at their place in Raitea, followed by a final week at the glorious Hotel Bora Bora. I can appreciate Michener's enthusiasm for beautiful Bora Bora, but I, too, prefer Moorea. FRANK ALEXANDER Rancho Palos Verdes

Move over, James Michener, while I weave a tale of my own return to the South Pacific--a tale that involves nomads and islands and myna birds that sing me awake here each soft and sunlit morning. I awoke this new day at Chez Pauline, a nondescript pension facing Bora Bora's lovely lagoon. Lying in bed, I studied the room: four walls, a door and a sheet snapping at the window. A sheet, mind you, not a curtain. There was nothing more. No closet. Not even a chair.

Exotic tropical forests, mysterious caves, waterfalls and ancient stone ruins--these are some of the delights of trekking Tahiti and Moorea, two islands in French Polynesia with some terrific pathways. True, few visitors think of pathways when they think of Polynesia, but Tahiti and its neighbor isle of Moorea have some good mountain hikes to complement their stunning beaches. Characteristic of Polynesia, these islands have jagged volcanic formations, deep valleys and cascading waterfalls.

One afternoon not long ago, my wife and I were coming out of the Caprice des Iles, a pleasant, casual island restaurant, after lunch on the veranda. The blue South Pacific was twinkling under a gentle breeze. The sun was so bright, the air so humid, the hills so green and overgrown that photosynthesis threatened to become audible. Amid this seeming paradise, our waiter sidled over to me like a racetrack tout and said in suave, French-accented English: "We have live music tonight. American girl.

Move over, James Michener, while I weave a tale of my own return to the South Pacific--a tale that involves nomads and islands and myna birds that sing me awake here each soft and sunlit morning. I awoke this new day at Chez Pauline, a nondescript pension facing Bora Bora's lovely lagoon. Lying in bed, I studied the room: four walls, a door and a sheet snapping at the window. A sheet, mind you, not a curtain. There was nothing more. No closet. Not even a chair.

This island is no longer just an excursion from Papeete, the capital city of French Polynesia on the main island of Tahiti, a dozen miles by ferry across the Sea of the Moon. Moorea has long had its own devoted contingent of travelers from around the world. Now, many others, who have just made day trips in the past, are booking themselves into the resort hotels, guest houses and the renovated Club Med of Moorea--and are taking the 45-minute ferry ride for a day visit to Tahiti.

Independent television producer Linda Hope has just been asked to envision a project she might do with her father, comedian Bob Hope. Off the top of her head, she weaves a scenario: It would be about an aging man who makes desperate attempts to attract a younger woman to boost his failing ego. "I would like to see him expose the softer, gentler side of himself," she says excitedly. "I would like to see him take risks.