November 20, 1997 |
When Campanile recently began a new Monday night series of family-style dinners, I called a couple of friends and signed up for the first one: bouillabaisse. Family-style means everyone at the table eats the same menu. It's like eating at home--except you're in a restaurant and Mark Peel and Nancy Silverton are much better cooks than most of us. For this first series of dinners, they've wisely chosen festive and elaborate dishes few amateur chefs would have the time or moxie to take on at home.
February 24, 2000 |
After closing briefly to remodel, Celestino Drago (Drago, Il Pastaio, Celestino) has essentially opened a new restaurant in the space where L'Arancino, his West Hollywood Sicilian, used to be. Sicilian cuisine just didn't go over there--and it's a real shame. There's a silver lining in that cloud, though, because his new concept, an Italian steakhouse called Celestino, is smart and appealing.
April 4, 2001 |
DEAR SOS: My best friend took me to the Sow's Ear Cafe in Cambria, Calif., where they served a wonderful dessert called White Velvet. We both loved it. It would be such a surprise for my friend if I prepared this dessert. Do you have the recipe? DAWN FINK Santa Barbara * DEAR DAWN: Now we do. Our request came through with a nice note from owner Bruce Block: "This is not one of our proprietary recipes, so we are happy to send it along."
January 13, 2012 |
While Republican presidential nominees duke it out on endless debates and President Obama tweaks his reelection strategy, chef Gordon Ramsay is noisily taking over the world. Hotels and restaurants might as well just start hanging out "Gordon was here" signs to warn the rest of us. Here's what's been announced this week alone about happenings on Planet Gordon. The cranky charmer from "Hell's Kitchen" and "Kitchen Nightmares" will launch "Hotel Hell" on Fox in March -- yes, yet another reality TV show riven with dramatic spats in the "Hell" franchise.
May 4, 2008 |
Hannah and Jeff Kirschner eat at Wilshire, the relaxed yet sophisticated restaurant in Santa Monica, at least once a week. It's hard to say which they love more--the food or the chef. The food is earthy and honest--wood-grilled steaks, tangerine-and-chili-spiked mussels, a dramatic deep-fried whole Thai snapper. The chef is their youngest son, Andrew.
May 13, 2013 |
Who doesn't love a cucumber? Picklers, slicers, green or yellow, smooth or bumpy, thin- or thick-skinned, chubby Kirbys, little cornichons, English, Japanese, Persian. Good thing then that with the impending heat comes cucumber season. They peak with the tomatoes, peppers, eggplants and those other cucurbits, squashes and melons, but among all these, cucumbers are the most like Johnny Depp -- very, very cool. With their refreshing herbaceous flavor and their snappy crunch, cucumbers are exactly what we want to eat right now -- still (they've been cultivated for more than 3,000 years)
July 29, 2009 |
What if no one had introduced Caroline Styne, then manager of Jones, to Suzanne Goin, who was at the time chef de cuisine at Campanile? We wouldn't have Lucques or A.O.C., two of L.A.'s most beloved restaurants. And we certainly wouldn't have the partners' new Tavern in Brentwood. Styne and Goin are the food world's equivalent of Lerner and Loewe or Leiber and Stoller. Everything they do just seems to work effortlessly. The two share a certain sensibility and aesthetic.