November 20, 1997 |
When Campanile recently began a new Monday night series of family-style dinners, I called a couple of friends and signed up for the first one: bouillabaisse. Family-style means everyone at the table eats the same menu. It's like eating at home--except you're in a restaurant and Mark Peel and Nancy Silverton are much better cooks than most of us. For this first series of dinners, they've wisely chosen festive and elaborate dishes few amateur chefs would have the time or moxie to take on at home.
February 24, 2000 |
After closing briefly to remodel, Celestino Drago (Drago, Il Pastaio, Celestino) has essentially opened a new restaurant in the space where L'Arancino, his West Hollywood Sicilian, used to be. Sicilian cuisine just didn't go over there--and it's a real shame. There's a silver lining in that cloud, though, because his new concept, an Italian steakhouse called Celestino, is smart and appealing.
January 13, 2012 |
While Republican presidential nominees duke it out on endless debates and President Obama tweaks his reelection strategy, chef Gordon Ramsay is noisily taking over the world. Hotels and restaurants might as well just start hanging out "Gordon was here" signs to warn the rest of us. Here's what's been announced this week alone about happenings on Planet Gordon. The cranky charmer from "Hell's Kitchen" and "Kitchen Nightmares" will launch "Hotel Hell" on Fox in March -- yes, yet another reality TV show riven with dramatic spats in the "Hell" franchise.
January 5, 2013
In the Los Angeles Times Test Kitchen, you never know what the next week might bring. It could be some incredibly complicated construction from one of America's greatest chefs. It could be the latest dish we've uncovered from one of Southern California's myriad ethnic cuisines. Or it could be a simple and delicious dinner that is perfect for feeding a family and friends. Whatever the case, the one thing that's certain is that every one of the 250 to 300 recipes we run every year will be tested again and again until it is as good as we can make it. Of course, some turn out even better.
May 13, 2013 |
Who doesn't love a cucumber? Picklers, slicers, green or yellow, smooth or bumpy, thin- or thick-skinned, chubby Kirbys, little cornichons, English, Japanese, Persian. Good thing then that with the impending heat comes cucumber season. They peak with the tomatoes, peppers, eggplants and those other cucurbits, squashes and melons, but among all these, cucumbers are the most like Johnny Depp -- very, very cool. With their refreshing herbaceous flavor and their snappy crunch, cucumbers are exactly what we want to eat right now -- still (they've been cultivated for more than 3,000 years)
May 4, 2008 |
Hannah and Jeff Kirschner eat at Wilshire, the relaxed yet sophisticated restaurant in Santa Monica, at least once a week. It's hard to say which they love more--the food or the chef. The food is earthy and honest--wood-grilled steaks, tangerine-and-chili-spiked mussels, a dramatic deep-fried whole Thai snapper. The chef is their youngest son, Andrew.
July 20, 1995 |
For better or worse, here's my definition of a dinner party: A group of people gathered together to eat . . . and a flaw. I have given countless dinner parties, privately and as part of a catering crew, and even, ever so briefly, as a catering company of one.
June 3, 2009 |
Anthony Bourdain didn't invent the chef memoir, but he revolutionized it. And judging by the latest crop of books, I'd say he has a lot to answer for. In the old days, chef stories followed a pretty staid outline: childhood in sunny France, first job, first great chef, own restaurant, and after many struggles, stardom. Like Horatio Alger stories they were at once almost ritualistic in their progress and thoroughly sanitized, yet oddly comforting in their predictability.