Papeete

In French Polynesia this is the jumping-off point to adventure, the launching pad to hundreds of islands spread across millions of square miles of ocean, islands that conjure up mental images of coral reefs and white-sand beaches and groves of coconut palms that turn day into darkness. By propeller airplane it takes less than an hour to reach the island of Maupiti, where the life style has changed little since English explorer Capt. James Cook dropped anchor a couple of centuries ago. It takes a bit longer to get to Rangiroa in the Tuamotus.

On a recent South Pacific cruise aboard the Star Flyer, a sailing ship somewhat bigger than a 19th century whaler and a lot comfier, I brought along Herman Melville's "Omoo." Melville had launched his writing career while racketing around the Marquesas and the Society Islands in his early 20s. In that languorous climate, he might well have gone the other way -- to seed, like the classic South Pacific remittance man -- but there was no avoiding his gift.

Striking longshoremen and youths fought with Tahitian police and set fire to buildings, leaving eight people injured, French news reports said. Fifty strikers were reported arrested. French Overseas Territories Minister Bernard Pons said he is sending South Pacific State Secretary Gaston Flosse to Papeete, capital of Tahiti and of the French Polynesian chain of islands, to report back on events.

"Polynesia: Afloat on Society's Fringe" [Oct. 19] brought back memories: In October 1964, on the way to Australia, I flew UTA French Airlines to Tahiti. Upon landing, I was surprised to find myself welcomed as Tahiti's first American jet tourist. It was night, and they put me up in a lovely hotel on Papeete's outskirts, where I awoke to a virgin paradise. Papeete was different then. I moved to the Green Hotel, six rustic rooms on the waterfront, with Stirling Hayden's Wanderer moored beside it. Jack Carpenter San Juan Capistrano Send letters to Travel, L.A. Times, 202 W. 1st St., Los Angeles, CA 90012; fax (213)

"Polynesia: Afloat on Society's Fringe" [Oct. 19] brought back memories: In October 1964, on the way to Australia, I flew UTA French Airlines to Tahiti. Upon landing, I was surprised to find myself welcomed as Tahiti's first American jet tourist. It was night, and they put me up in a lovely hotel on Papeete's outskirts, where I awoke to a virgin paradise. Papeete was different then. I moved to the Green Hotel, six rustic rooms on the waterfront, with Stirling Hayden's Wanderer moored beside it. Jack Carpenter San Juan Capistrano Send letters to Travel, L.A. Times, 202 W. 1st St., Los Angeles, CA 90012; fax (213)

Like a coral necklace dropped from the sky, Manihi, the farthest atoll in the South Pacific Tuamotus Archipelago, is the Polynesia of romantic myth. Until recently it was isolated from the outside world, known to few besides the people who were born at Paumotu, the island's one small village. Treasure lies within the circlet of this reef, for a quirk of nature has made the floor of the lagoon the breeding ground of the only oysters in the world that bear black pearls.

Misconceptions about destinations continue to plague travelers who sometimes don't pay enough attention to what items they should or should not take with them, and what to expect and not expect during their travels. Enjoying the "paradises" of the world, which includes coping with both culture shock and expense shock, can be greatly enhanced by information and preparation.

On a recent South Pacific cruise aboard the Star Flyer, a sailing ship somewhat bigger than a 19th century whaler and a lot comfier, I brought along Herman Melville's "Omoo." Melville had launched his writing career while racketing around the Marquesas and the Society Islands in his early 20s. In that languorous climate, he might well have gone the other way -- to seed, like the classic South Pacific remittance man -- but there was no avoiding his gift.

The FBI's ability to identify a comatose man in a Chula Vista medical center Thursday marked an apparent breakthrough in the mysterious disappearance of a former NBA player and two others off Tahiti. Miles Dabord, wanted in Phoenix on fraud charges and sought by the FBI and law enforcement officials in Tahiti in connection with a murder investigation, has been in a coma and listed as a John Doe since he was brought to the hospital Sunday, the FBI said Thursday.

For Hong Kong residents desperate to flee before China takes over in 1997, the Federal Republic of Corterra sounded perfect. The tiny Pacific island nation was described as lying between Tahiti and Hawaii, with 80,000 citizens who enjoy democratic government, a British-style legal system and no income tax. Best of all, a newspaper ad here boasted, passports are bargain-priced at only $16,000. Three local businessmen quickly paid the $5,000 application fee. Then they discovered the catch.

Friends were aghast when my wife, Andrea, and I said we were spending four of our seven vacation days in Tahiti's largest city, Papeete. "You will hate it there," Bud said. "It's dirty and it's a tourist trap." "Papeete? You've got to be kidding," another seasoned traveler said. "With all the other great places to see, why spend time in Papeete?"

In French Polynesia this is the jumping-off point to adventure, the launching pad to hundreds of islands spread across millions of square miles of ocean, islands that conjure up mental images of coral reefs and white-sand beaches and groves of coconut palms that turn day into darkness. By propeller airplane it takes less than an hour to reach the island of Maupiti, where the life style has changed little since English explorer Capt. James Cook dropped anchor a couple of centuries ago. It takes a bit longer to get to Rangiroa in the Tuamotus.

Striking longshoremen and youths fought with Tahitian police and set fire to buildings, leaving eight people injured, French news reports said. Fifty strikers were reported arrested. French Overseas Territories Minister Bernard Pons said he is sending South Pacific State Secretary Gaston Flosse to Papeete, capital of Tahiti and of the French Polynesian chain of islands, to report back on events.

Like a coral necklace dropped from the sky, Manihi, the farthest atoll in the South Pacific Tuamotus Archipelago, is the Polynesia of romantic myth. Until recently it was isolated from the outside world, known to few besides the people who were born at Paumotu, the island's one small village. Treasure lies within the circlet of this reef, for a quirk of nature has made the floor of the lagoon the breeding ground of the only oysters in the world that bear black pearls.

Misconceptions about destinations continue to plague travelers who sometimes don't pay enough attention to what items they should or should not take with them, and what to expect and not expect during their travels. Enjoying the "paradises" of the world, which includes coping with both culture shock and expense shock, can be greatly enhanced by information and preparation.

Friends were aghast when my wife, Andrea, and I said we were spending four of our seven vacation days in Tahiti's largest city, Papeete. "You will hate it there," Bud said. "It's dirty and it's a tourist trap." "Papeete? You've got to be kidding," another seasoned traveler said. "With all the other great places to see, why spend time in Papeete?"

Small-ship line  Paul Gauguin Cruises has cut sale prices by  $750 on selected seven-night cruises to Tahiti. Prices start at $3,647 per person, including airfare from Los Angeles, but that rate will likely sell out quickly.  The deal: The cruise line operates Paul Gauguin, a ship named for the French artist who famously captured scenes of Tahiti on canvas. The vessel accommodates 332 guests and 217 staff members. Stops on the Tahitii & Society Islands trip include Papeete, Raiatea, Taha'a (Motu Mahana)