September 8, 2011 |
In Venice, Italy, friends who've met in the street will go off to drink un ombra , slang for a small glass of wine. That's the name of a new Italian restaurant that opened quietly a few months ago in Studio City. Chef-owner Michael J. Young is crazy enough about wine that he's taken courses at UCLA to learn more about it. He also picked up a lot about Italian wine working as sous chef under Angelo Auriana at Valentino way back when and with Celestino Drago at Drago Santa Monica.
November 4, 2012
The oldest European word for noodle is itrion . In ancient Greece, itrion was a kind of tortilla flavored with sesame and honey, but some time before the 5th century, it evidently occurred to somebody that instead of frying your itrion in expensive sesame oil, you could boil it in plain water. This early sort of noodle was not eaten with sauce, like Italian pasta. Basically it was an extender for soups and bean dishes, though sometimes it was sweetened to make a cheap dessert.
September 15, 2012 |
Whenever Italian friends come to stay, I've noticed they can go at most three, maybe four days before they can't stand it anymore: They have to have some pasta. If that means cooking it at a campground or beside the road, so be it. This is comfort food at its most basic. And if there's nothing much in the cupboard, well then that's why aglio olio (garlic and olive oil) was invented. Or for that matter cacio e pepe (Pecorino Romano and lots of black pepper). Here are three places to get that pasta fix. Gusto Chef/owner Vic Casanova grew up in an Italian American neighborhood in the Bronx, cooked his way around New York and then headed west, where he launched the contemporary Italian restaurant Culina at the Four Seasons.
March 19, 2003
Total time: 1 1/2 hours Servings: 6 to 8 Note: Canned piquillo peppers can be found at Spanish markets or specialty stores. 2 pounds fresh spinach, tough stems removed 1 pound hot Italian sausage Salt 1 pound penne, shells or other hollow pasta 1/4 cup ( 1/2 stick) butter, plus more for pan 2 cloves garlic, minced Freshly grated nutmeg, to taste 1 cup chicken stock 2 cups heavy whipping cream 1/3 cup diced piquillo peppers (about 6)
CALIFORNIA | LOCAL
May 15, 1986
Your shared observations and my resultant laughter over your editorial (April 27), "Food for the Gods," deserves warm thanks. Mixing pasta, cats and love must have stirred a tremendous response, probably mostly in disagreement over your comment that cats are too dumb to appreciate pasta, preferring "foul-smelling cat food" instead. Our Abby, a little chubby, puts aside his characteristic musical meow and usual menu of "people-food aroma" diet, for a bellowing banter until he, too, shares in his human friend's pasta passion.
May 7, 1989 |
In November, a front-page story in the Wall Street Journal announced it had gained cachet. Last month, Cook's magazine called it "The Pasta of the '90s." This isn't some boutique farmer's neat new invention. This is rice--you've heard of it. Most of the world has been hip to it for some time. In China, the Rice Measure symbolizes justice, mercy and virtue. In Hong Kong, social workers ferret out welfare cheats by snooping in applicants' rice bins to check the quality of rice stocked.