November 1, 2012 |
David Lebovitz knows his sweets . The Paris-based blogger is a former pastry chef at Chez Panisse and one of my favorite cookboook authors, with several dessert cookbooks and a guidebook to Parisian pastries to his credit. He knows his stuff. So when he says that Pasadena's Little Flower Candy Co. makes caramels that are the equal of anything he can find in France, that's a pretty big deal. "People often ask me, after taking a bite of a caramel in Paris: Why can't they get caramels that taste like that in America?"
August 16, 2012 |
Baking is the most punctilious of the culinary arts and Thomas Keller is among the most punctilious of the culinary artists. Put the two together and you might wind up with a cookbook that would make strong cooks quake in fear. Happily, that's not the case with the “Bouchon Bakery” cookbook that's now available for pre-order with a fall publication date. Written by the French Laundry boss and his pastry chef Sebastien Rouxel with help from baker Matthew McDonald (his bread section is definitive)
February 4, 2013 |
The new A.O.C. , located in the space that was until recently Il Covo on West 3rd Street, opens on Wednesday. Suzanne Goin and business partner Caroline Styne, owners of Lucques, Tavern and the Larder at Maple Drive, decided last year to move the decade-old A.O.C. to a new spot to give the small-plates restaurant a refresher. (The A.O.C. cookbooks, with recipes by Goin and pairing suggestions from Styne, is coming out this fall.) At the new A.O.C. are Goin's usual seasonal small plates: cheese and charcuterie, salads, vegetables and dishes from the wood burning oven.
April 27, 2013 |
There's a Southern influence that lately has wended its way through Los Angeles restaurants, and its emblem is the biscuit. Tender, flaky, golden biscuits have risen on menus from Manhattan Beach to Melrose Avenue. Buttermilk biscuits, oat biscuits, cheesy biscuits, biscuits made with lard rendered from the fat of Mangalitsa pigs. Govind Armstrong shows his Georgia Low Country roots at Willie Jane in Venice, where diners have been known to dunk the buttermilk biscuits into the broth of Prince Edward Island mussels with tasso ham and preserved lemon butter.
January 15, 2013 |
Former Patina executive chef Tony Esnault has taken the reins of the kitchen at the downtown restaurant Church & State. Owner Yassmin Sarmadi tapped Esnault to work at Spring, a new French restaurant slated to open on the ground floor of the Douglas Building on Spring Street in late 2013, but Esnault ended up stepping into former Church & State chef Jeremy Berlin's spot. Esnault will still be the chef at Spring when it opens. Esnault's menu additions at Church & State include a chicory and citrus salad, coq au vin and nettle soup.
August 2, 2006 |
THERE'S dessert, and then there's dessert.... And then there's more dessert. Not satisfied to send out just one showstopper at the end of a meal, L.A. pastry chefs are parading course after course of dessert. And we're not talking about just a few extra mignardises. They've solved the pressing after-dinner conundrum in which you have to make a heartbreaking decision on just one dessert when there are so many tantalizing choices.
August 18, 2012
Everything Nancy Silverton touches seems to turn to gold. After working for years as pastry chef for Wolfgang Puck's Spago, she and then-husband Mark Peel opened Campanile in 1989, and it quickly became one of Southern California's most important restaurants. Pursuing her passion for bread, she started La Brea Bakery the same year, and it quickly became the benchmark for fine sourdough before she sold it in 2001. In 2006, she joined partners Mario Batali and Joseph Bastianich in opening the Mozza Restaurant Group , owner of the overwhelmingly popular Osteria Mozza, Pizzeria Mozza and Mozza2Go.
September 5, 2012 |
Scientist Mark Bernstein , the creator of the fantastically useful software program Tinderbox , alerted me to the fact that the public lecture series Science and Cooking , “a collaboration between eminent Harvard researchers and world-class chefs," resumes at Harvard this month. Returning lecturers include Ferran Adriá ( El Bulli Foundation ), David Chang ( Momofuku ), José Andrés ( Minibar and Jaleo in Washington ), and Wylie Dufresne ( WD-50 )
January 15, 2014 |
If you're hungry for some good food and meeting foodie luminaries, head east. Kogi food truck chef Roy Choi, Beekman Boys' Brent Ridge and Josh Kilmer-Purcell, and Manhattan Beach restaurateur David LeFevre are among the chefs who will be cooking at the Food + Wine Festival Palm Desert. The festival , now in its fourth year, is March 21-23 and will feature two Grand Tasting events: --"California Dreamin'," with samples from more than 50 Coachella Valley restaurants and 70 wineries, brewers and spirit makers, and 10 demonstrations (11 a.m.-4 p.m. March 22)