September 3, 2003 |
Who do you call if you need 17 ladles, a scimitar, a pair of clogs, two square ice cream scoops and a peeler? If you are a chef in Los Angeles or Orange county, you call Chefs' Toys. In short order, a 23-foot truck will pull into your back alley, rattling with saute pans, spatulas and whisks. In fact, every inch is crammed with all manner of gadgets and utensils: pastry tips, chef's knives, fish scalers and mandolines; melon ballers, butcher steels, immersion blenders and scoops.
September 5, 2002 |
Goodbye to Harry's: Harry's Bar & American Grill, the Century City restaurant based on the famous Harry's Bar in Florence, Italy, shut its doors Aug. 12. The message on the restaurant's answering machine now says, "We're sorry to say that after 30 years at the ABC Entertainment Center, Harry's Bar has now closed." Reason: The ABC Entertainment Center is scheduled to close later this year to make way for an office complex. Harry's was best known for its annual Ernest Hemingway parody contest.
August 2, 2006 |
THERE'S dessert, and then there's dessert.... And then there's more dessert. Not satisfied to send out just one showstopper at the end of a meal, L.A. pastry chefs are parading course after course of dessert. And we're not talking about just a few extra mignardises. They've solved the pressing after-dinner conundrum in which you have to make a heartbreaking decision on just one dessert when there are so many tantalizing choices.
September 5, 2012 |
Scientist Mark Bernstein , the creator of the fantastically useful software program Tinderbox , alerted me to the fact that the public lecture series Science and Cooking , “a collaboration between eminent Harvard researchers and world-class chefs," resumes at Harvard this month. Returning lecturers include Ferran Adriá ( El Bulli Foundation ), David Chang ( Momofuku ), José Andrés ( Minibar and Jaleo in Washington ), and Wylie Dufresne ( WD-50 )
November 21, 2012 |
New Italian restaurant Bestia opens Friday on the edge of downtown's Arts District, a 140-seat trattoria from chef Ori Menashe, pastry chef Genevieve Gergis and partner Bill Chait, located in a former factory building converted into lofts near the L.A. River. The 4,100-square-foot Bestia (Italian for "beast"), designed by Studio Unlimited, is meant to channel contemporary Italian spaces that mix modern interiors with centuries-old architecture: A "bar fight" wall covering, meat hook chandeliers that hang from steel tracks, booth seating and a copper bar are some of the elements. Menashe is former executive chef of Angelini Osteria, and his menu is multi-regional Italian: grilled octopus with warm lentils, guanciale and salsa di acciughe ; housemade salumi; housemade spicy 'nduja, mozzarella and scallion pizza; spaghetti mancini with squid ink, mullet bottarga and Calabrian chiles; hand-rolled fusilli with braised goat, ricotta salata and pistachio oil; and grilled hen, borlotti beans and chicken liver crostino.
August 24, 2012 |
L.A. Epicurean Festival: The L.A. Epicurean Festival takes place on Sunday at cathedral-turned-event-space Vibiana in downtown Los Angeles. The full-day event will feature demonstrations from chefs, sommeliers and mixologists, a cooking contest judged by chefs Michel Richard, Josie LeBalch and Bradley Ogden, wine czar Jean-Charles Boisset, Tasting Panel editor Meridith May and master sommelier Will Burtner, and a sugar sculpture created by pastry...
January 27, 2012 |
On the heels of the Paula Deen debacle comes a new show from the Food Network: "Fat Chef. " No euphemisms allowed here, apparently. The new reality series, which debuted this week in an incredible feat of good timing, features obese chefs who need and want to drop a considerable amount of weight, and do so -- or try to do so -- with the help of a trainer. Unlike you and me, for these people food is their life -- literally. They're preparing it, cooking it and tasting it for most of the day because their jobs depend on it. With long, stressful days being the norm for many chefs, finding time to exercise is sometimes next to impossible.
September 29, 2012 |
If the heart of a bakery is its oven, then Proof Bakery's is ginormous. Really. It's a gas-powered Dalton with double doors and revolving shelves that can fit 18 sheet trays - or 72 pies - at a time. The oven, about the size of a 10-foot U-Haul truck, is 50 years old, inherited with the space, and its quirks provide the cult Atwater bakery its pulse. "When someone first showed me how to light it, you had to fill a basin with gas, light a newspaper and throw it in," says owner Na Young Ma. "It was like 'Backdraft.' "But I have learned to love it. " (She also has since installed a modern igniter.)
March 19, 2013 |
When the first ballot for the 2013 James Beard Foundation restaurant awards was published, Pete Wells, the restaurant critic for the New York Times, took exception in the Times' Diner's Journal blog . He felt that New York had been short-changed on the lists of 20 semifinalists for the various restaurant awards. (See the comments below the entry for a lively discussion.) Now it's L.A.'s turn to grouse. After all the official restaurant awards panelists had voted (there are 25 for each of 10 regions)
April 27, 2013 |
There's a Southern influence that lately has wended its way through Los Angeles restaurants, and its emblem is the biscuit. Tender, flaky, golden biscuits have risen on menus from Manhattan Beach to Melrose Avenue. Buttermilk biscuits, oat biscuits, cheesy biscuits, biscuits made with lard rendered from the fat of Mangalitsa pigs. Govind Armstrong shows his Georgia Low Country roots at Willie Jane in Venice, where diners have been known to dunk the buttermilk biscuits into the broth of Prince Edward Island mussels with tasso ham and preserved lemon butter.