August 25, 2012
Roxana Jullapat, the pastry chef at highly regarded Cooks County, is an L.A. native who has worked at such celebrated Los Angeles restaurants as Campanile, Bastide, Lucques, AOC and AMMO. A journalism major in college, she says her fate was sealed after she found herself baking a tarte tatin at Cafe Figaro in Los Feliz. In 2011, she teamed up with her partner, chef Daniel Mattern, and Claudio and Adria Blotta to open her first restaurant, Cooks County. Working with seasonal produce and alternative grains, Roxana's menus are one of the most farmers' market driven in town.
November 21, 2012 |
New Italian restaurant Bestia opens Friday on the edge of downtown's Arts District, a 140-seat trattoria from chef Ori Menashe, pastry chef Genevieve Gergis and partner Bill Chait, located in a former factory building converted into lofts near the L.A. River. The 4,100-square-foot Bestia (Italian for "beast"), designed by Studio Unlimited, is meant to channel contemporary Italian spaces that mix modern interiors with centuries-old architecture: A "bar fight" wall covering, meat hook chandeliers that hang from steel tracks, booth seating and a copper bar are some of the elements. Menashe is former executive chef of Angelini Osteria, and his menu is multi-regional Italian: grilled octopus with warm lentils, guanciale and salsa di acciughe ; housemade salumi; housemade spicy 'nduja, mozzarella and scallion pizza; spaghetti mancini with squid ink, mullet bottarga and Calabrian chiles; hand-rolled fusilli with braised goat, ricotta salata and pistachio oil; and grilled hen, borlotti beans and chicken liver crostino.
October 14, 2009 |
Seven years in the making, the Farmer's Kitchen in Hollywood is officially open. At last week's ribbon-cutting, farmers and politicians were there to salute the new cafe, which launched quietly in the spring. The Farmer's Kitchen uses surplus food from the Hollywood Farmers Market and is a venue for classes and job training. It's a project of Sustainable Economic Enterprises of Los Angeles, which runs the Hollywood market and others. The community-focused kitchen is another effort to make a link between farmers and city dwellers, says Pompea Smith, head of SEE-LA.
August 2, 2006 |
THERE'S dessert, and then there's dessert.... And then there's more dessert. Not satisfied to send out just one showstopper at the end of a meal, L.A. pastry chefs are parading course after course of dessert. And we're not talking about just a few extra mignardises. They've solved the pressing after-dinner conundrum in which you have to make a heartbreaking decision on just one dessert when there are so many tantalizing choices.
September 5, 2012 |
Scientist Mark Bernstein , the creator of the fantastically useful software program Tinderbox , alerted me to the fact that the public lecture series Science and Cooking , “a collaboration between eminent Harvard researchers and world-class chefs," resumes at Harvard this month. Returning lecturers include Ferran Adriá ( El Bulli Foundation ), David Chang ( Momofuku ), José Andrés ( Minibar and Jaleo in Washington ), and Wylie Dufresne ( WD-50 )
February 9, 2013 |
In our latest Master Class, Thomas Keller celebrates a simple yet elegant custard tart : "So often when people plan Valentine's Day dinners, they want to finish with a big, elaborate dessert. I prefer to go in a different direction. To me, nothing expresses love better than a simple dish that is taken to a new level because you've taken extra care in its making. "A perfect example is the very simple custard tart called Pomme d'Amour that is made by Knead Patisserie in San Francisco.
November 1, 2012 |
David Lebovitz knows his sweets . The Paris-based blogger is a former pastry chef at Chez Panisse and one of my favorite cookboook authors, with several dessert cookbooks and a guidebook to Parisian pastries to his credit. He knows his stuff. So when he says that Pasadena's Little Flower Candy Co. makes caramels that are the equal of anything he can find in France, that's a pretty big deal. "People often ask me, after taking a bite of a caramel in Paris: Why can't they get caramels that taste like that in America?"
December 3, 2012 |
"The Next Iron Chef" proves that winning just might be the riskiest thing a chef can do. Chef Elizabeth Falkner -- who came thisclose to nearly becoming an Iron Chef in Season 4, found herself heading out the door this week, undone in part by a supposed "advantage" she had earned from winning an earlier round of the competition. But so often in this high-stakes competition, "advantage" is just another way of saying "opportunity to lose it all. " And that's exactly what happened in a near-mirror image of the Season 4 upset -- down to the bleach-blond spiky hair-do -- that also came during the auction challenge.