August 16, 2012 |
Baking is the most punctilious of the culinary arts and Thomas Keller is among the most punctilious of the culinary artists. Put the two together and you might wind up with a cookbook that would make strong cooks quake in fear. Happily, that's not the case with the “Bouchon Bakery” cookbook that's now available for pre-order with a fall publication date. Written by the French Laundry boss and his pastry chef Sebastien Rouxel with help from baker Matthew McDonald (his bread section is definitive)
January 15, 2014 |
If you're hungry for some good food and meeting foodie luminaries, head east. Kogi food truck chef Roy Choi, Beekman Boys' Brent Ridge and Josh Kilmer-Purcell, and Manhattan Beach restaurateur David LeFevre are among the chefs who will be cooking at the Food + Wine Festival Palm Desert. The festival , now in its fourth year, is March 21-23 and will feature two Grand Tasting events: --"California Dreamin'," with samples from more than 50 Coachella Valley restaurants and 70 wineries, brewers and spirit makers, and 10 demonstrations (11 a.m.-4 p.m. March 22)
August 2, 2006 |
THERE'S dessert, and then there's dessert.... And then there's more dessert. Not satisfied to send out just one showstopper at the end of a meal, L.A. pastry chefs are parading course after course of dessert. And we're not talking about just a few extra mignardises. They've solved the pressing after-dinner conundrum in which you have to make a heartbreaking decision on just one dessert when there are so many tantalizing choices.
August 18, 2012
Everything Nancy Silverton touches seems to turn to gold. After working for years as pastry chef for Wolfgang Puck's Spago, she and then-husband Mark Peel opened Campanile in 1989, and it quickly became one of Southern California's most important restaurants. Pursuing her passion for bread, she started La Brea Bakery the same year, and it quickly became the benchmark for fine sourdough before she sold it in 2001. In 2006, she joined partners Mario Batali and Joseph Bastianich in opening the Mozza Restaurant Group , owner of the overwhelmingly popular Osteria Mozza, Pizzeria Mozza and Mozza2Go.
September 5, 2012 |
Scientist Mark Bernstein , the creator of the fantastically useful software program Tinderbox , alerted me to the fact that the public lecture series Science and Cooking , “a collaboration between eminent Harvard researchers and world-class chefs," resumes at Harvard this month. Returning lecturers include Ferran Adriá ( El Bulli Foundation ), David Chang ( Momofuku ), José Andrés ( Minibar and Jaleo in Washington ), and Wylie Dufresne ( WD-50 )
November 21, 2012 |
New Italian restaurant Bestia opens Friday on the edge of downtown's Arts District, a 140-seat trattoria from chef Ori Menashe, pastry chef Genevieve Gergis and partner Bill Chait, located in a former factory building converted into lofts near the L.A. River. The 4,100-square-foot Bestia (Italian for "beast"), designed by Studio Unlimited, is meant to channel contemporary Italian spaces that mix modern interiors with centuries-old architecture: A "bar fight" wall covering, meat hook chandeliers that hang from steel tracks, booth seating and a copper bar are some of the elements. Menashe is former executive chef of Angelini Osteria, and his menu is multi-regional Italian: grilled octopus with warm lentils, guanciale and salsa di acciughe ; housemade salumi; housemade spicy 'nduja, mozzarella and scallion pizza; spaghetti mancini with squid ink, mullet bottarga and Calabrian chiles; hand-rolled fusilli with braised goat, ricotta salata and pistachio oil; and grilled hen, borlotti beans and chicken liver crostino.
April 27, 2013 |
There's a Southern influence that lately has wended its way through Los Angeles restaurants, and its emblem is the biscuit. Tender, flaky, golden biscuits have risen on menus from Manhattan Beach to Melrose Avenue. Buttermilk biscuits, oat biscuits, cheesy biscuits, biscuits made with lard rendered from the fat of Mangalitsa pigs. Govind Armstrong shows his Georgia Low Country roots at Willie Jane in Venice, where diners have been known to dunk the buttermilk biscuits into the broth of Prince Edward Island mussels with tasso ham and preserved lemon butter.
February 2, 2005 |
Diners about town have been noticing a phenomenon that some are characterizing as the "Bastide diaspora." Since the exit of chef Alain Giraud, nearly a dozen former employees have also moved on, and clusters of alums are showing up here and there. Among the departed? Former general manager Donato Poto, sous-chef Kevin M. Meehan, sommelier Christophe Rolland, assistant sommelier Drew Langley, pastry chef Koa Duncan, pastry cook Mario Ortiz and other assorted chefs and line cooks.
April 12, 2006 |
THE bad news: The Hatfields are leaving San Francisco. The good news: The Hatfields are leaving San Francisco for Los Angeles. Who, you may ask, are the Hatfields? And are there any McCoys? Quinn and Karen Hatfield, he a chef, she a pastry chef, wowed San Francisco when they opened their restaurant Cortez in the Adagio hotel in 2003. Their bold-flavored Mediterranean cooking inspired the San Francisco Chronicle to name them "rising stars" almost immediately. Now they plan a return to Karen's hometown to open, you guessed it, Hatfields.