August 2, 2006 |
THERE'S dessert, and then there's dessert.... And then there's more dessert. Not satisfied to send out just one showstopper at the end of a meal, L.A. pastry chefs are parading course after course of dessert. And we're not talking about just a few extra mignardises. They've solved the pressing after-dinner conundrum in which you have to make a heartbreaking decision on just one dessert when there are so many tantalizing choices.
August 18, 2012
Everything Nancy Silverton touches seems to turn to gold. After working for years as pastry chef for Wolfgang Puck's Spago, she and then-husband Mark Peel opened Campanile in 1989, and it quickly became one of Southern California's most important restaurants. Pursuing her passion for bread, she started La Brea Bakery the same year, and it quickly became the benchmark for fine sourdough before she sold it in 2001. In 2006, she joined partners Mario Batali and Joseph Bastianich in opening the Mozza Restaurant Group , owner of the overwhelmingly popular Osteria Mozza, Pizzeria Mozza and Mozza2Go.
September 5, 2012 |
Scientist Mark Bernstein , the creator of the fantastically useful software program Tinderbox , alerted me to the fact that the public lecture series Science and Cooking , “a collaboration between eminent Harvard researchers and world-class chefs," resumes at Harvard this month. Returning lecturers include Ferran Adriá ( El Bulli Foundation ), David Chang ( Momofuku ), José Andrés ( Minibar and Jaleo in Washington ), and Wylie Dufresne ( WD-50 )
November 21, 2012 |
New Italian restaurant Bestia opens Friday on the edge of downtown's Arts District, a 140-seat trattoria from chef Ori Menashe, pastry chef Genevieve Gergis and partner Bill Chait, located in a former factory building converted into lofts near the L.A. River. The 4,100-square-foot Bestia (Italian for "beast"), designed by Studio Unlimited, is meant to channel contemporary Italian spaces that mix modern interiors with centuries-old architecture: A "bar fight" wall covering, meat hook chandeliers that hang from steel tracks, booth seating and a copper bar are some of the elements. Menashe is former executive chef of Angelini Osteria, and his menu is multi-regional Italian: grilled octopus with warm lentils, guanciale and salsa di acciughe ; housemade salumi; housemade spicy 'nduja, mozzarella and scallion pizza; spaghetti mancini with squid ink, mullet bottarga and Calabrian chiles; hand-rolled fusilli with braised goat, ricotta salata and pistachio oil; and grilled hen, borlotti beans and chicken liver crostino.
August 17, 2012 |
Who makes the best croissant in Los Angeles? Apparently, that has been a subject of hot debate on the news side of the Los Angeles Times staff. To settle the argument, they came to the experts - the Food team. They brought in their favorite 10 croissants from various sources and four judges - Jonathan Gold, Betty Hallock, Noelle Carter and I - settled in for a tasting. Often with contests like this the votes are widely scattered as the differences tend to be minimal. Not so in this case.
February 2, 2005 |
Diners about town have been noticing a phenomenon that some are characterizing as the "Bastide diaspora." Since the exit of chef Alain Giraud, nearly a dozen former employees have also moved on, and clusters of alums are showing up here and there. Among the departed? Former general manager Donato Poto, sous-chef Kevin M. Meehan, sommelier Christophe Rolland, assistant sommelier Drew Langley, pastry chef Koa Duncan, pastry cook Mario Ortiz and other assorted chefs and line cooks.
April 12, 2006 |
THE bad news: The Hatfields are leaving San Francisco. The good news: The Hatfields are leaving San Francisco for Los Angeles. Who, you may ask, are the Hatfields? And are there any McCoys? Quinn and Karen Hatfield, he a chef, she a pastry chef, wowed San Francisco when they opened their restaurant Cortez in the Adagio hotel in 2003. Their bold-flavored Mediterranean cooking inspired the San Francisco Chronicle to name them "rising stars" almost immediately. Now they plan a return to Karen's hometown to open, you guessed it, Hatfields.
January 15, 2013 |
Former Patina executive chef Tony Esnault has taken the reins of the kitchen at the downtown restaurant Church & State. Owner Yassmin Sarmadi tapped Esnault to work at Spring, a new French restaurant slated to open on the ground floor of the Douglas Building on Spring Street in late 2013, but Esnault ended up stepping into former Church & State chef Jeremy Berlin's spot. Esnault will still be the chef at Spring when it opens. Esnault's menu additions at Church & State include a chicory and citrus salad, coq au vin and nettle soup.
November 9, 2012 |
Wine buffs, check your calendars for a few worthy wine events coming up this week and next: Paso Roble's second annual Garagiste Festival continues this weekend. The four-day event (which began Thursday with a dinner by Ludovic Lefebvre) features four dozen “garagiste” (i.e., producing fewer than 1,200 cases a year) winemakers pouring their best bottles at Windfall Farms ' Stallion Barn in Paso Robles. Saturday is a day of seminars and tastings followed by an after-party.