February 26, 2013 |
The inimitable Zagat has just released its 2013 "30 Under 30" awards, honoring the top young culinary talents in the Los Angeles area. The 30 honorees were feted Monday night at a cocktail party at the Emerson Theatre with Zagat founders Tim and Nina Zagat on hand to do the honors. The Zagat survey, which started as a homemade newsletter and morphed over the years into a publishing juggernaut, has embraced the digital age. The guides are now online, and coverage of this event included a live feed and a Google+ Live Hangout.
January 15, 2013 |
Former Patina executive chef Tony Esnault has taken the reins of the kitchen at the downtown restaurant Church & State. Owner Yassmin Sarmadi tapped Esnault to work at Spring, a new French restaurant slated to open on the ground floor of the Douglas Building on Spring Street in late 2013, but Esnault ended up stepping into former Church & State chef Jeremy Berlin's spot. Esnault will still be the chef at Spring when it opens. Esnault's menu additions at Church & State include a chicory and citrus salad, coq au vin and nettle soup.
September 29, 2012 |
If the heart of a bakery is its oven, then Proof Bakery's is ginormous. Really. It's a gas-powered Dalton with double doors and revolving shelves that can fit 18 sheet trays - or 72 pies - at a time. The oven, about the size of a 10-foot U-Haul truck, is 50 years old, inherited with the space, and its quirks provide the cult Atwater bakery its pulse. "When someone first showed me how to light it, you had to fill a basin with gas, light a newspaper and throw it in," says owner Na Young Ma. "It was like 'Backdraft.' "But I have learned to love it. " (She also has since installed a modern igniter.)
September 19, 2012 |
Le Fooding , the upstart French culinary group, kicked off its annual New York food fest today in Brooklyn, dubbed Le Fooding Brooklyn Fling . In its fourth year, the U.S. foray of the Paris -based publisher of restaurant guides and arbiter of culinary culture has been a success among the food-obsessed. So much so that Le Fooding this year opened New York offices. And now Le Fooding says it's heading west. Anna Polonsky, who heads Le Fooding's France-U.S. partnerships, says Le Fooding will stage its good-time gastro-fest in Los Angeles in the spring.
August 2, 2006 |
THERE'S dessert, and then there's dessert.... And then there's more dessert. Not satisfied to send out just one showstopper at the end of a meal, L.A. pastry chefs are parading course after course of dessert. And we're not talking about just a few extra mignardises. They've solved the pressing after-dinner conundrum in which you have to make a heartbreaking decision on just one dessert when there are so many tantalizing choices.
November 21, 2012 |
New Italian restaurant Bestia opens Friday on the edge of downtown's Arts District, a 140-seat trattoria from chef Ori Menashe, pastry chef Genevieve Gergis and partner Bill Chait, located in a former factory building converted into lofts near the L.A. River. The 4,100-square-foot Bestia (Italian for "beast"), designed by Studio Unlimited, is meant to channel contemporary Italian spaces that mix modern interiors with centuries-old architecture: A "bar fight" wall covering, meat hook chandeliers that hang from steel tracks, booth seating and a copper bar are some of the elements. Menashe is former executive chef of Angelini Osteria, and his menu is multi-regional Italian: grilled octopus with warm lentils, guanciale and salsa di acciughe ; housemade salumi; housemade spicy 'nduja, mozzarella and scallion pizza; spaghetti mancini with squid ink, mullet bottarga and Calabrian chiles; hand-rolled fusilli with braised goat, ricotta salata and pistachio oil; and grilled hen, borlotti beans and chicken liver crostino.
September 5, 2012 |
Scientist Mark Bernstein , the creator of the fantastically useful software program Tinderbox , alerted me to the fact that the public lecture series Science and Cooking , “a collaboration between eminent Harvard researchers and world-class chefs," resumes at Harvard this month. Returning lecturers include Ferran Adriá ( El Bulli Foundation ), David Chang ( Momofuku ), José Andrés ( Minibar and Jaleo in Washington ), and Wylie Dufresne ( WD-50 )
August 18, 2012
Everything Nancy Silverton touches seems to turn to gold. After working for years as pastry chef for Wolfgang Puck's Spago, she and then-husband Mark Peel opened Campanile in 1989, and it quickly became one of Southern California's most important restaurants. Pursuing her passion for bread, she started La Brea Bakery the same year, and it quickly became the benchmark for fine sourdough before she sold it in 2001. In 2006, she joined partners Mario Batali and Joseph Bastianich in opening the Mozza Restaurant Group , owner of the overwhelmingly popular Osteria Mozza, Pizzeria Mozza and Mozza2Go.
February 2, 2005 |
Diners about town have been noticing a phenomenon that some are characterizing as the "Bastide diaspora." Since the exit of chef Alain Giraud, nearly a dozen former employees have also moved on, and clusters of alums are showing up here and there. Among the departed? Former general manager Donato Poto, sous-chef Kevin M. Meehan, sommelier Christophe Rolland, assistant sommelier Drew Langley, pastry chef Koa Duncan, pastry cook Mario Ortiz and other assorted chefs and line cooks.