September 4, 2009 |
Circling Valley Boulevard in Alhambra, lost in suffocating, 100-degree heat, I'm wondering: What could possibly justify leaving my air-conditioned office to stumble around this too-familiar Southern California bleakscape of tire outlets, big box stores, nail parlors and fast-food joints? A few minutes later, I've finally limped into 101 Noodle Express, and the answer is at hand. It's the restaurant's beef roll, something like a crispy Chinese pancake, rolled around thin layers of savory beef and topped with a homemade bean sauce.
January 26, 2000 |
Craig Claiborne, the retired New York Times food editor and restaurant critic who died Saturday, was certainly a man who had been in the right place at the right time. But he was also the right person for the job. Claiborne took the helm of the New York Times' food coverage in 1957, just as Americans were becoming curious about cuisine. Rapidly expanding air travel had made trips to Europe affordable for even the middle class.
September 7, 1986 |
The Southern Arizona Restaurant Assn. has warned member establishments to watch out for phony restaurant critics--disreputable types who have been showing up at local eating places and announcing that they're there to review the joint for some publication or other, hoping to get a free meal or maybe a cash payoff for their trouble.
May 6, 2007 |
Gertrude Bell Queen of the Desert, Shaper of Nations Georgina Howell Farrar, Straus & Giroux: 512 pp., $27.50 SHE was outspoken, self-confident, smart, brave. She took a first at Oxford in modern history, began mountain climbing in her 30s, spoke six languages, loved and lived in the world's deserts and helped create an autonomous Iraq.
November 11, 2004 |
Question: What qualifications does one need to become a food critic other than the desire to be paid to eat at fancy restaurants? Tom Gibson Redondo Beach Virbila: I think you have to have a curiosity about all kinds of foods. It would be hard to be a restaurant critic if you were a vegetarian, say, or someone who didn't like organ meats or anything spicy. You have to find restaurants endlessly interesting and entertaining. You have to be able to write. And in L.A.
January 11, 1987
I have a few hundred comments on Ruth Reichl's article on the death of fine dining in Los Angeles ("Dinosaur Under Glass," Jan. 4). First and foremost, elegant dining is not endangered in L.A. We never had it. To be fair, very few cities have it; perhaps two or three places in Paris, one or two in New York. The problem is in one's definition of elegant. For me, at $125 or more per head, "elegant has to be perfect." That precludes an owner at Le Dome saying "Don't ruin my evening" to a client seeking the seat he requested.