Restaurants

Let's face it: Sometimes, you just want something a little less exotic. Here are some favorite local restaurants, both new and old: Blue Water Café: Busy even when other spots are empty, this Yaletown hot spot serves local seasonal catches at different stations: sushi counter, raw bar and bustling open kitchen; Blue Water Café, 1095 Hamilton St., Yaletown; (604) 688-8078, www.bluewatercafe.net. Cibo Trattoria : Named Canada's best new restaurant in 2008 by Air Canada's in-flight magazine, this square box of a room seats perhaps 50. Service is professional and friendly, and the market-based Italian menu changes daily.

The recession continues to take a bite out of eateries. The National Restaurant Assn. reported that the industry's performance continued to decline in August, the latest period for which it has data. The association's restaurant performance index -- which tracks the health of and outlook for the U.S. restaurant industry -- stood at 97.9 in August, down 0.2% from July. It's the third decline in the last four months, the trade group said. The group's index is based on responses to its survey about such indicators as sales, customer traffic, labor and capital expenditures.

Water Grill, with its attentive servers, white tablecloths and hushed formality, was long a stalwart of L.A.'s old-guard restaurant scene. But to the young professionals who have streamed into its downtown neighborhood, all that pomp - and closing times as early as 9 p.m. - were just a bit too grandpa. To attract those budding foodies, Water Grill recently completed a $1.5-million makeover. The decor is more casual, the menu less expensive and filled with craft brews favored by the hipster crowd.

Eric Greenspan, chef-owner of the Foundry on Melrose who was a competitor on the Food Network's "The Next Iron Chef," says he's in the process of purchasing the space next door to the Foundry for his new restaurant, Greenspan's Grilled Cheese. Greenspan's signature sandwich of short rib, Taleggio and apricot-caper purée, which won the Grilled Cheese Invitational (thus now named the Champ), will be available along with others. Greenspan also will be serving old-school seltzer drinks such as lime rickeys and chocolate egg creams, plus latkes, tater tots and a variety of soups -- available in cup, bowl or "dip" size.

Historically, L.A. restaurants have shared the same fate as their famous celebrity patrons in that they are the hot spots du jour then fade away, not to be heard from again. But a handful of eateries from bygone eras have made a lasting impact on the Southern California landscape that reflects a progressive evolution in the region's architecture. The University Art Museum at UC Santa Barbara has dug into its extensive collection to chronicle a select few restaurants that defined the lifestyle changes in L.A. in the early and mid 20th century with its exhibition "Sardi's to Orange Julius ®."

Re "I'll have the earplugs, please," June 8 I'm glad some restaurants are realizing that dining out should not preclude enjoying conversation. Recently, at a fine steakhouse in Newport Beach, the noise level was so great that I could not hear a person two feet from me. Neither my friends nor I will go back. While my hearing is somewhat compromised, my desire to enjoy a dinner out with friends is not. I choose restaurants based not only on food quality and ambience, but also the decibel level.

California's Central Coast seems to be exploding with restaurants. In Templeton, try Martin's on Main, a converted garage that is now a hamburger stand. Delicious cheeseburgers with bacon, and a nice owner trying to make it work. I highly recommend it. The other find is Madeline's Restaurant in Cambria, with linen tablecloths, fresh flowers and a friendly owner-chef. Everything is very fresh. The sea bass with mango glaze was the best I have ever had. Martin's on Main, 628 S. Main St., Templeton; (805)

THE BEST WAY TO FLORENCE, ITALY From LAX, Alitalia, Air France and Lufthansa offer connecting service (change of plane) to Florence. Restricted round-trip fares begin at $884, excluding fees and taxes. TELEPHONES To call the numbers below from the U.S. dial 011 (the international dialing code), 39 (the country code for Italy) and then the local number. WHERE TO STAY Granduomo, No. 1/7 Piazza del Duomo; 055-2670004, http://www.granduomo.com . A newly restored 18th century palazzo overlooking the Duomo offers elegant mini-apartments, a roof terrace and a cozy library.

It's Sunday night. You can go out for Chinese, order in or ? radical idea ? cook. Some of you might get lucky and have a friend invite you over for homemade Korean barbecue or a paella. Whatever the plan, Sunday is for relaxing, for sneaking in a last dose of pleasure before the Monday-to-Friday blues start up all over again. That's why they call it "Sunday supper" as opposed to the more formal "Sunday dinner. " Lately, some of L.A.'s best restaurants have been tapping into that desire for something simple and delicious on Sunday night by offering prix-fixe suppers.

DEAR SOS: I am a former Southern California resident now living in Northern California. I really miss Clearman's Northwoods Inn restaurants. I know quite a few years back you published the recipe for their red cabbage salad. JUDITH CHENEY Via e-mail DEAR JUDITH: We first ran this recipe, developed by the Times Test Kitchen, in 1990. It's based on the salad from the Clearman's restaurant chain. Red Cabbage Salad Active Work Time and Total Preparation Time: 15 minutes, plus 2 hours standing 1/2 head red cabbage, cored 1/2 cup oil 1/2 cup plus 2 tablespoons red wine vinegar 3 tablespoons sugar 2 teaspoons salt, or more to taste 1 teaspoon seasoned salt 1/4 teaspoon pepper 1/4 teaspoon onion powder Shred the cabbage so it is irregular, with some fine and some coarse shreds, and place in a large nonaluminum bowl.