November 17, 2011
This is the bird everyone has been talking about. Inspired by the famous roast chicken by Judy Rodgers, chef at San Francisco's beloved Zuni Café, it's as simple as can be. No more pale, under-seasoned birds. No more finding room in the refrigerator for huge pails of brine. Salt it, bag it and forget it (well, give it a rub once a day just to be sure the salt is evenly distributed). The resulting turkey is moist, gloriously browned and perfectly seasoned all the way to the bone. Begin the brining the Sunday evening before Thanksgiving and give it several hours in the refrigerator uncovered at the end to thoroughly dry the skin.
January 12, 2013 |
Meghan and Carter are getting married. Like so many friends of my daughter, they are bright, funny and, sometimes, almost preternaturally serious. A couple of weeks ago, they asked my wife if we would talk to them about how to stay married - and about how to cook. The first, I'll leave to Kathy; after almost 34 years, it's still a mystery to me. But the cooking part is right up my alley, and, even better, I figured it would give me a chance to try out some of the ideas I've been on a soapbox about for the last couple of years.
September 1, 2011 |
The white grape Grechetto has a long history in Umbria in central Italy. It's an essential part of the blend for the region's best-known white, Orvieto. But winemakers in Todi, a medieval hill town near Perugia, use the native grape on its own to make Grechetto di Todi. One of the best is made by the Roccafiore estate. Fiorfiore, as it's called, is pale gold with a scent of tropical fruit and flowers. The 2009 is rich and round, but with a nice snap of acidity. It stands out for its elegance.
February 17, 2011
Giorgio Rivetti of La Spinetta in Piedmont started out as a Moscato d'Asti producer but dreamed of making a serious red wine. First he got into Barbera with his extraordinary Cà di Pian. Next he took on Barbaresco and Barolo and became a powerhouse in the region. And now at La Spinetta's estate in Tuscany, he's producing this stunning Vermentino. Crisp and golden, it tastes of grapefruit rind and ripe pears. It has a wonderful freshness and minerality coupled with a lush texture and a long finish.
November 23, 2013 |
This is an elegant Napa Valley Chardonnay from Chateau Montelena, very much still in the style that won the famous Paris Tasting of 1976 and launched California Chardonnay onto the world wine scene. Silky on the palate, the 2011 has aromas of pear, citrus and honeysuckle. A bright acidity and a discrete touch of oak give the ripe fruit flavors a lift. A wine to savor. This would be a great bottle to take to a holiday dinner with people who would appreciate its finesse. It shows best with shellfish or fish in sauce -- coquilles St. Jacques, lobster with drawn butter or Dungeness crab, but also a simple roast chicken.
May 12, 2011 |
What a lovely expression of Pinot Noir from New Zealand's Mountford estate. Elegant and smooth, this New World Pinot carries the taste of Santa Rosa plums and sweet Asian spices. The scent jumps right out of the glass — sandalwood, and something leafy and delicate. In this weather, chill it just a bit and serve with roast chicken, sweetbreads or roast leg of lamb. Region: Waipara Valley, New Zealand Price: $29 to $35 Style: Rich and full-bodied What it goes with: Roast chicken or leg of lamb Where to find it: Flask Fine Wines in Studio City, (818)
February 10, 1999 |
Chimichangas--crisp-fried tortilla bundles of tender chicken with cheese and sour cream--are ridiculously easy to make when you have leftover roast chicken. Kids love them, grown-ups love them and, if you feel like rewarding yourself for making dinner on a hectic weeknight, they are terrific with margaritas.
May 26, 2012 |
I don't know anything about the Fat Monk depicted on a bottom corner of the label hoisting a wine glass, halo hovering over his head. But I would like to second that halo for making a terrific everyday Pinot at an everyday price. I first tasted this wine when an astute friend brought it to dinner months ago. She'd scooped up the last few bottles at Surfas but kept an eye out and when they restocked and picked up half a dozen bottles for me. Now it seems to be around at a few more places.