April 28, 1989 |
Things aren't always as stark as they seem. Bellini's looks like just a little neighborhood trattoria-- and not in the most elegant Pico Boulevard neighborhood, either--and it is a bit bleak inside. Gray walls. Butcher paper on the tables. Pen-and-ink drawings of old men's faces. But the menu is full of bright spots. The food tends to be light and inventive, most of it in effect vegetarian, including a couple of cheeseless pizzas. There is a decided personal tone to it, including a mild mania for fennel.
October 21, 2011
Downtown's Perch has perhaps the best bar view in all Los Angeles — a scintillating rooftop vista in the Historic Core, surrounded by a skyscraper scene straight out of a Jay McInerney novel. But should you want to make that view a little blurrier, their "apertif hour" is a great chance to try its neo-French bistro wares at prices that won't leave your wallet feeling vertigo. From 4 to 6 p.m. daily, you can pick up a draft of Kronenbourg 1664 beer for the bargain price of $5; a smattering of wines or champagne-liqueur cocktails at $6; $7 nets you a Jacques Collins (saffron gin, lemon juice, simple syrup, soda and saffron)
March 7, 1986 |
It doesn't look very promising from the outside. But when you open the door to Partners and Company, (1836 Hyperion Ave., (213) 661-0711) you find yourself in a large, lovely airy room, done in shades of peach and filled with plants and flowers. Pick up the menu, and you get another surprise: While both the ambiance and the menu are quite sophisticated, the prices are extremely reasonable. At lunchtime a tuna sandwich virtually redefines the term.
November 12, 2010
The empty nest looms like the existential void in "The Kids Grow Up," documentarian Doug Block's latest examination of the mysteries of the family. Having explored his parents' marriage in "51 Birch Street," here he focuses his lens at even shorter range as he suffers through the final year at home for his college-bound only child. For those who can get past his self-involvement, "Kids" strikes more than a few deep chords. Block wears his neuroses so guilelessly on his sleeve and organizes his material with such skill, that what might have been insufferable navel-gazing attains poignancy.
August 15, 1986 |
One of the appetizers at the 30th Street Bistro is called beggar's purse, three little variously filled pasta sacks tied shut with green onion "strings." I was just thinking how they sounded rather like the crepe purses filled with caviar that were served at Joachim Splichal's regrettably defunct Max au Triangle in Beverly Hills when I looked up and saw Splichal himself dining at the next table. Joachim Splichal in Newport Beach?
January 5, 1989 |
Question: I would like to know the difference between saffron and safflower. And what do these two herbs do in rice or other dishes? Answer: Saffron (Crocus sativus) is a perennial with funnel-shaped blue or purple flowers that appear in autumn. Each flower has three orange stigmas, the source of the spice. Estimates vary, but it takes somewhere between 75,000 and 250,000 stigmas to produce one pound of saffron. Since these must be collected by hand, the spice is very expensive.