December 7, 2009 |
Ladies who lunch: On your marks! Bouchon Beverly Hills just opened for lunch. The lighting is oh so flattering. The setting glamorous. And the food? Let's just say Beverly Hills has never experienced French bistro food so impeccably executed. Thomas Keller, the force behind the French Laundry in Napa Valley and Per Se in New York, doesn't fool around. Like the original Bouchon in Yountville and the one in Las Vegas, the Beverly Hills location was designed by Adam Tihany and captures the essence of a bistro -- yards of shiny brass, graceful potted palms, servers in long white aprons -- without attempting to be an exact copy.
September 12, 1986 |
"Oh George, it's darling!" gushed a woman sitting down in the casual chic of the latest Piret's, 998 S. Robertson Blvd., Los Angeles, (213) 657-2545. She ordered a glass of white wine (there are any number available), contemplated the soups, the salads, the pasta possibilities. Then she gave a contented little sigh. Piret's opened just last week, but it feels instantly familiar.
July 16, 1987 |
Massoud Sabzerou, who was born and reared in Iran, is now Isaac Sabzerou, who presides over the tiny kitchen of a fast food place in downtown Los Angeles Sabzerou, a Jew, switched to the name Isaac when he went to Israel, where he ran a falafel stand in a small town near Tel-Aviv. Now he is making falafel and some other very good dishes at the Grill Table, which opened recently on 9th Street. The menu is mostly Israeli.
August 25, 2008 |
"IT'S ACROSS from Green House Smoke Shop," I yelled into my cellphone through the din at Gjelina, a new restaurant on Abbot Kinney Boulevard in Venice. I'd invited my friend Dan and his houseguests, and with no sign out front (at least that night), I was worried they wouldn't find it. But a few minutes later the three of them showed up, having lucked into a parking space in back. Inside, it's quite the scene, very Venice chic. The glamorous and the scruffy are seated side by side at two tall communal tables, beneath a whimsical chandelier made out of an old oval pot rack twined with mismatched lightbulbs.
August 16, 1990 |
Salads have long been the mainstay of light, summer meals. But now sandwiches are starting to nudge salads aside. There are a lot of reasons for our renewed interest in sandwiches. We are now nutritionally savvy enough to know that bread is indeed the staff of life. Some of us are such bread fans, in fact, that the filling has become secondary to the quality of the bread that holds it. And a sandwich makes a much more satisfying meal than a salad--even when the latter is accompanied by bread.
March 26, 1992 |
Cafe Looma, a breezy new spot in Newport Beach, is far from perfect, but it has potential for greatness. In fact, a good deal of greatness is already there. The same could be said about chef Jason McMahan, a graduate of San Francisco's Culinary Academy and former sous chef at Monsoon, a Bay Area restaurant noted for Chinese and Asian dishes prepared from the highest quality ingredients (its owner, Bruce Cost, practically wrote the book on Asian ingredients).
July 17, 1987 |
"Help yourself to all you care to eat," said the sweet-voiced gray-haired woman, putting down another pan of food and wiping her hands on her old-fashioned apron. She smiled encouragingly and allowed as how the bean casserole was very good with the rice. Then she scurried back to the kitchen to bring out some more of the dairy-free olive cheese. Country Life, 888 S. Figueroa St., downtown (213) 489-4118, is a very strange restaurant.
March 17, 1989 |
The waitress removed the plate. The fact that it was still full did not seem to distress her. "Ooh," she said as she bore it away, "is that pasta?" I told her it was calamari . She nodded. "I looked down at it when I picked it up from the kitchen," she said, "and there were these little feet--you know, the tentacles--waving in the air. And I thought, like, how can people eat that stuff?"
May 18, 1989 |
If you live in the vicinity of Westlake Village, you undoubtedly know about Jack's Deli and Restaurant. It's been in business since 1977 and is one of the area's hot spots--open from early morning to late at night, with a menu flexible enough to accommodate the long hours. Stop in for breakfast and there are a choice of 16 omelets, numerous other egg dishes and pancakes that owner Victor Kreis raves about. We found the Jack's special omelet a winner--filled with avocado, onions, Muenster cheese, sour cream and mushrooms.
November 12, 1987 |
B ernard, Bernard, Bernard. You are back. How nice. Well, Chez Dupont is the last place I expected to find you . . . but perhaps not. You always did want your own place. So, Bernard Boivin--whom we first met years ago when he was a waiter at Ma Maison, then at Silvio's as maitre d' and shortly afterward at La Pasteria as directeur de restaurant, as he preferred to be called--is now owner/operator of Chez Dupont.