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NEWS
May 1, 2013 | By Russ Parsons
The USDA decision late last week to allow imports of more Italian cured meats already has food lovers salivating. Ask them for particulars and they will reply almost in unison: “ Culatello. ” “I'm looking forward to everything, but the main one would be culatello ,” says Marco Guidi, whose family has run the Italian specialty food distributor Guidi Marcello in Santa Monica for more than 30 years. Almost unknown in this country, culatello is the “heart” of a prosciutto ham, removed and cured separately. It has a silky texture and profound pork flavor.
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FOOD
December 14, 2013 | By S. Irene Virbila
An easygoing Piemontese red from the underappreciated Dolcetto grape, which is sort of the younger cousin of Nebbiolo. Bright and polished, the 2012 Elio Grasso Dolcetto d'Alba tastes like sweet fresh cherries and plums. It's a really pretty wine, with a minerality that gives it depth. Delicious with a salumi and cheese plate, or with crostini topped with chicken livers or beans. I love it with grilled sausages too, and pasta with meat sauce. Region: Piedmont Price: $15 to $19 Style: Bright and polished What it goes with: Salumi, cheese, crostini, grilled sausages, pasta with meat sauce Where to find it: Hi-Time Wine Cellars in Costa Mesa, (949)
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NEWS
April 30, 2013 | By Russ Parsons
Fans of Italian cured meat products such as culatello , pancetta and salami are already smacking their lips. And so are the folks who make the wonderful salumi , so many of which have been unavailable in the United States -- until now. On Friday, the Department of Agriculture quietly published a determination in the Federal Register that six Italian regions are now clear of an obscure malady of pigs called swine vesicular disease ...
FOOD
August 10, 2013 | S. Irene Virbila
No matter the occasion, my friend Rafael inevitably shows up with a platter of prosciutto di San Daniele, the sweeter cousin of Parma ham, that he's purchased at Roma Deli in Pasadena. It's always perfectly sliced, the way they do it in Italy, so thin the ham almost melts on the tongue and you can taste every bit of its salty-sweet goodness. That's an example of sumptuous minimalism in a charcuterie or salumi plate. And it used to be about the only option if you wanted to put together one at home.
FOOD
August 10, 2013 | S. Irene Virbila
No matter the occasion, my friend Rafael inevitably shows up with a platter of prosciutto di San Daniele, the sweeter cousin of Parma ham, that he's purchased at Roma Deli in Pasadena. It's always perfectly sliced, the way they do it in Italy, so thin the ham almost melts on the tongue and you can taste every bit of its salty-sweet goodness. That's an example of sumptuous minimalism in a charcuterie or salumi plate. And it used to be about the only option if you wanted to put together one at home.
FOOD
July 7, 2012 | By S. Irene Virbila, Los Angeles Times Restaurant Critic
When Campanile introduced grilled cheese night on Thursdays with then-co-owner Nancy Silverton at the panini press, those casual evenings perked up the dining scene. Sometimes it seemed as if all of L.A. would stop by for her variations on the grilled cheese theme and a festive, bargain-priced meal. And those Thursdays are still going strong. Now theme nights are catching on with other restaurants. Think of it as a one-night pop-up. Why should restaurants have to be exactly the same every night anyway?
FOOD
February 9, 2013 | By S. Irene Virbila, Los Angeles Times
This fresh, fruity red is from rising star Arianna Occhipinti, who released her first wine in 2004, when she was 21. In Sicily, Frappato, pronounced frah-pa-to, is usually used to lighten inky Nero d'Avola, but Occhipinti makes a pure Frappato with the freshness and liveliness of a good Beaujolais under her secondary Tamí label. I love its spunky notes of black cherry and other dark berries accented with lavender and spices. She's committed to natural winemaking and farms her vineyards in eastern Sicily biodynamically.
FOOD
February 2, 2013 | By S. Irene Virbila, Los Angeles Times
This is not your rustic Barbera but a wonderfully elegant example from the renowned Barbaresco producer Giovanni Pasquero-Elia. A gorgeous ruby red, the 2010 Paitin Barbera "Serra" is soft and silky in texture, intense and so fresh with flavors of cherries, blueberries, mint and spice. The Barbera shines with a platter of salumi and with hearty pasta dishes. Pour it with vegetarian dishes, pizza and grilled meats too. And while you're shopping, keep an eye out for his other bottling "Campolive.
FOOD
January 5, 2013 | By S. Irene Virbila, Los Angeles Times
It's winter, or as wintry as it gets in these parts. Time to start soaking beans to braise with lamb shanks, slow-roasting great chunks of pork and sitting down to platters of salumi . What goes with all of the above? Barbera d'Alba, and here's a terrific one from third-generation producer Bosco. Barbera doesn't get much better than this - lush and velvety, with polished tannins and a rich perfume of dark plums and cherries. Its lively acidity pairs beautifully with fatty foods. This is the time of the year when Italians go in for lentils with heavily marbled cotechino sausage - with Barbera.
NEWS
November 19, 2012 | By Jenn Harris
Bryant Wigger is the executive chef at Trattoria Neapolis in Pasadena. The former Beverly Hills Four Seasons sous chef's southern Italian menu highlights his love of curing meats. And when he's not in the restaurant's built-in salumi case, diners can catch him tossing a pizza into the kitchen's 7,000-pound wood-fueled oven. New at Trattoria Neapolis are late-night weekends starting at 11 p.m. every Friday and Saturday with a late menu, music, cocktails and a classic 1930s burlesque dancer.
NEWS
May 1, 2013 | By Russ Parsons
The USDA decision late last week to allow imports of more Italian cured meats already has food lovers salivating. Ask them for particulars and they will reply almost in unison: “ Culatello. ” “I'm looking forward to everything, but the main one would be culatello ,” says Marco Guidi, whose family has run the Italian specialty food distributor Guidi Marcello in Santa Monica for more than 30 years. Almost unknown in this country, culatello is the “heart” of a prosciutto ham, removed and cured separately. It has a silky texture and profound pork flavor.
NEWS
April 30, 2013 | By Russ Parsons
Fans of Italian cured meat products such as culatello , pancetta and salami are already smacking their lips. And so are the folks who make the wonderful salumi , so many of which have been unavailable in the United States -- until now. On Friday, the Department of Agriculture quietly published a determination in the Federal Register that six Italian regions are now clear of an obscure malady of pigs called swine vesicular disease ...
FOOD
February 9, 2013 | By S. Irene Virbila, Los Angeles Times
This fresh, fruity red is from rising star Arianna Occhipinti, who released her first wine in 2004, when she was 21. In Sicily, Frappato, pronounced frah-pa-to, is usually used to lighten inky Nero d'Avola, but Occhipinti makes a pure Frappato with the freshness and liveliness of a good Beaujolais under her secondary Tamí label. I love its spunky notes of black cherry and other dark berries accented with lavender and spices. She's committed to natural winemaking and farms her vineyards in eastern Sicily biodynamically.
FOOD
February 2, 2013 | By S. Irene Virbila, Los Angeles Times
This is not your rustic Barbera but a wonderfully elegant example from the renowned Barbaresco producer Giovanni Pasquero-Elia. A gorgeous ruby red, the 2010 Paitin Barbera "Serra" is soft and silky in texture, intense and so fresh with flavors of cherries, blueberries, mint and spice. The Barbera shines with a platter of salumi and with hearty pasta dishes. Pour it with vegetarian dishes, pizza and grilled meats too. And while you're shopping, keep an eye out for his other bottling "Campolive.
FOOD
January 5, 2013 | By S. Irene Virbila, Los Angeles Times
It's winter, or as wintry as it gets in these parts. Time to start soaking beans to braise with lamb shanks, slow-roasting great chunks of pork and sitting down to platters of salumi . What goes with all of the above? Barbera d'Alba, and here's a terrific one from third-generation producer Bosco. Barbera doesn't get much better than this - lush and velvety, with polished tannins and a rich perfume of dark plums and cherries. Its lively acidity pairs beautifully with fatty foods. This is the time of the year when Italians go in for lentils with heavily marbled cotechino sausage - with Barbera.
NEWS
November 19, 2012 | By Jenn Harris
Bryant Wigger is the executive chef at Trattoria Neapolis in Pasadena. The former Beverly Hills Four Seasons sous chef's southern Italian menu highlights his love of curing meats. And when he's not in the restaurant's built-in salumi case, diners can catch him tossing a pizza into the kitchen's 7,000-pound wood-fueled oven. New at Trattoria Neapolis are late-night weekends starting at 11 p.m. every Friday and Saturday with a late menu, music, cocktails and a classic 1930s burlesque dancer.
FOOD
November 8, 2006 | Russ Parsons, Times Staff Writer
MOZZA, the hotly anticipated pizzeria owned by Mario Batali, Nancy Silverton and Joe Bastianich, is still a week from opening, but apparently some sausage fans couldn't wait. Late on Oct. 28, someone broke into the restaurant and walked away with $700 of hand-crafted cured meats made by Batali's father, Armandino, at his Seattle business, Salumi. Then just two days later, a 13-pound imported Italian mortadella sausage also disappeared.
FOOD
January 30, 2008 | Jenn Garbee, Special to The Times
IT used to be that a sports bar was a sports bar -- where patrons were more particular about the beers and cheers than about the food. But lately, with the proliferation of neighborhood gastropubs, sushi sports bars and even beer-friendly wine bars, there are alternatives.
FOOD
July 7, 2012 | By S. Irene Virbila, Los Angeles Times Restaurant Critic
When Campanile introduced grilled cheese night on Thursdays with then-co-owner Nancy Silverton at the panini press, those casual evenings perked up the dining scene. Sometimes it seemed as if all of L.A. would stop by for her variations on the grilled cheese theme and a festive, bargain-priced meal. And those Thursdays are still going strong. Now theme nights are catching on with other restaurants. Think of it as a one-night pop-up. Why should restaurants have to be exactly the same every night anyway?
FOOD
December 9, 2010 | By S. Irene Virbila, Los Angeles Times Restaurant critic
I distinctly remember an Italian friend raving to me a few years ago about the new mozzarella bar Obikà she'd just come across in Milan where you could get bufala mozzarella still dripping with milk, fresh from Campania to the south. Now, you have to understand that in Italy, food is always regional. And although, yes, you can buy mozzarella in practically any little deli in Italy, it usually isn't super fresh and mostly it's fior di latte , mozzarella made from cow's milk rather than the much more prized buffalo, which has its own delimited production area just like a wine.
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