December 2, 2010 |
Dear SOS: I was recently in San Francisco and had brunch at Serpentine in an area called Dogpatch. They made the most incredible savory bread pudding ? the bread was combined with summer squash, zucchini and sweet corn among other things. I don't think an order of it would ship well ? any chance you can get the recipe so I can make it myself? Debbie Wolen From e-mail Dear Debbie: Executive chef Deepak Kaul was happy to share Serpentine's recipe for savory bread pudding.
November 25, 2010 |
Some culinary trends come with promises concocted in the vague argot of marketing executives and brand managers. But a few rare ideas spring from something universal. They're the restaurants and recipes that tap into unknown pleasures, manifestations of all our unconscious cravings. Such is the case at Bruxie, a weeks-old stand in Old Towne Orange whose s'mores-stuffed and prosciutto-packed Belgian waffle sandwiches are fulfilling the fantasies of every syrup-soaked childhood and late-night binge.
October 7, 2010 |
Every chef dreams about opening his or her own restaurant ? someday. For Paul Shoemaker, that day jumped closer when he arrived for work at Bastide one morning in 2008 to find out that owner Joe Pytka had abruptly decided to close it down, just weeks after Shoemaker had earned 31/2 stars from The Times for his refined, sensual cooking. (Bastide reopened a year and a half later with a new concept ? bookstore café ? and a new chef.) After an experience like that, it's easy to understand why Shoemaker would opt for working for himself.
August 26, 2010 |
Your best introduction to Mottainai Ramen might be if you slink in exhausted, after a long day of work, needing some comfort. Duck your head through the Japanese curtains that hang in Mottainai Ramen's entryway and you'll be hit by a soothing fog of pork and garlic, as waiters and waitresses shout hearty Japanese greetings and farewells, and somebody lights a wok on fire. Wait, what? A flaming wok? Indeed: Over Mottainai Ramen's tidy collection of two-person tables and pleasant wooden counters, you'll often catch, in the open kitchen, one of the chefs expertly flipping a wok. They're toasting the miso for a serving of the most unique of Mottainai's three specialties: Sapporo Lover, a pork-intensive ramen saturated with toasted miso.
July 13, 2010 |
It's always a wild scene at 85C, a coffee shop, bakery and patisserie in Irvine. From morning through evening, hundreds of customers of every age and walk of life pour through its doors heaping their trays high with a fantastical array of baked goods and the sea salt lattes that helped to popularize this Taiwanese cafe. Every few minutes a worker pops through the bakery's gleaming stainless steel doors into the bustling sales area carrying a tray of warm goodies fresh from the oven while majestically announcing its name.
April 14, 2010 |
"Coffee and Danish": You can't help but think of a stale pot of truck stop brew sitting next to gunky jelly-laden pastry. But that couldn't be further from the original. Sure Denmark is a country that runs on coffee, but rather than the dense lump of dough that we know, their daily cups are accompanied by delicate, flaky, marzipan-filled morsels that we rarely see in America. "Coffee is an integral part of the daily lives of Scandinavians," says Beatrice Ojakangas, author of "The Great Scandinavian Baking Book."
January 13, 2010
Basic savory pie dough No. 1 Total time: 15 minutes, plus freezing and chilling times Servings: Makes enough dough for 1 double-crust (9-inch) pie or 6 individual hand pies 1/2 cup lard or vegetable shortening 1/2 cup (1 stick) butter 2 2/3 cups (11 1/2 ounces) flour 1 teaspoon salt 5 tablespoons cold water 1. Freeze the lard and butter until solid, at least one hour (up to overnight). 2. In a large mixing bowl, mix together the flour and salt.
January 13, 2010 |
Savory pies are the culinary equivalent of a down quilt: warm, cushy, uncomplicated -- and precisely what I want to tuck into once winter has settled in and I've found myself safely on the other side of the high-stakes holiday cooking gantlet. After all, December may be a monthlong orgy of creamy pumpkin and candied pecan, rare roast beef and chestnuts, and Champagne and oysters to toast the new year -- but January and its resolutions seem to demand simplicity and thrift. Thrifty needn't mean dull or meager, however, and savory pies -- with their combination of tender, salted crust and hearty filling so elementally formal, yet endlessly varied -- fit the bill perfectly.