October 31, 2013 |
Several years ago, a cookbook editor friend called asking my advice on whether she should publish Jacques Pépin's autobiography. Pepin is one of my heroes in food, I told her, but I'd pass on the book - all chef biographies tend to follow the same story arc, there's not a lot new to be said. Wisely she ignored me, and though "The Apprentice" turned out just as I predicted plot-wise, it was one of the bestselling cookbooks of the year. I learned two lessons from that incident: I'm a lot better off as a second-guessing journalist, and when it comes to these autobiographies, plot is secondary to character.
CALIFORNIA | LOCAL
May 26, 2013 |
The answer always comes with a puzzled look. "Flour? What's wrong with corn?" It's hard to explain to friends and the befuddled person behind the counter of a tortilleria or taco truck that nothing is wrong with the commonly found masa de maiz , but this Sonoran desert-born Mexican would love her carne asada resting on a small flour tortilla. I grew up in Nogales, Ariz., with family hours away on both sides of the border, and maize was an afterthought. Most kitchens had a rolling pin on the counter and a robin's egg-blue box (or sometimes, bucket)
CALIFORNIA | LOCAL
February 16, 2013 |
Most restaurant owners shudder when a food truck pulls up outside. Not Mike Israyelyan. He invited one inside the Hollywood restaurant he calls Calle Tacos. Israyelyan and partners Robert Vinokur and Dorian and Javier Villaseñor spent $20,000 to have the side of a 22-foot-long food truck measured and an exact copy fabricated out of stainless steel. Then they equipped it with lights and tires, covered it with a colorful vinyl logo wrap and hauled it on a flatbed to Hollywood Boulevard.
January 19, 2012
LOCATION: Check tacomaria.com and twitter.com/tacomaria for the latest locations and weekly schedule. PRICES: Tacos, $2.50 to $3; burritos, $6 to $7; specials and desserts, $4 to $7. DETAILS: Credit cards accepted.
January 19, 2012 |
When food truck fatigue finally set in among the Twitter-equipped some time last year, the mobile movement all but stalled. Gone were the throngs that waited for hours, their attentions shifted instead to newly minted food artisans and itinerant pop-up restaurants. But in a Darwinian twist, only the strongest trucks have survived. And though the thrill of the chase may be gone for some, what remains are by and large the best meals on wheels. Taco María is a product of that natural selection.
December 8, 2011
"Mission Street Food: Recipes and Ideas From an Improbable Restaurant" is as much a book with which to spend a few hours on the couch as it is a book that inspires your next meal. And it'd be an entertaining few hours. The book tells the story of Mission Street Food, the San Francisco culinary project of chef Anthony Myint, and his wife, Karen Leibowitz, who started selling their pork-belly-filled flatbreads from a subletted Guatemalan taco truck, and what took off from there. (Mission Street Food's successor is the restaurant Mission Chinese Food.)