July 8, 2010 |
It's farmers market day in Santa Monica and I have tempura on my mind. The Japanese farmer carries most of my staples — shishito peppers, burdock, kabocha squash and daikon radish, which I like to grate and put in the dipping sauce; it's like a sauce within the sauce that heats and aids digestion. Across the way, I see a mound of haricots verts. I buy a handful. Next to them are breathtakingly beautiful squash blossoms. I get a dozen. My tote bags fill up quickly. The baby carrots look irresistible too. I love to deep-fry them whole, including the young leaves.
May 19, 2011 |
At the Lazy Ox Canteen on the edge of Little Tokyo, the happy clamor of downtown denizens tucking into chef Josef Centeno's Ox burgers, crispy pig's ears and brick-roasted mussels leaks out the door into the street. But Lazy Ox is no longer the only restaurant on the block. Next door is a second restaurant from Centeno's partner Michael Cardenas. By day, Cardenas is still an integral part of Innovative Dining Group (IDG), founders of Sushi Roku, BOA and more. By night, he's the force behind Aburiya Toranoko, the onetime Matsuhisa general manager's take on izakaya , or Japanese pub food, one with a distinctly urban, hip-hop vibe.
May 20, 2010 |
A queue of naked noodles waits to be dressed with delicate daikon sprouts, quivering poached eggs and oil-slicked strips of blackened bell pepper. Ingredients are plucked from bowls, plates, bottles and jars and laid onto the loose nests of udon, each shard of seaweed and ring of green onion in its right place. Lomita's Oumi Sasaya is a noodle house of seemingly effortless elegance, minimalism maximized to the fullest. It's a feat achieved in the details. Here, waitresses pour pitchers of broth with one hand guarding against even the smallest splash, and hourglasses accompany orders of hot sake, which aren't to be sipped until the last grain of sand tumbles down to the dune below.
May 20, 2010
Oumi Sasaya Location: 2383 Lomita Blvd., Suite 101, Lomita, (310) 530-4661 (reservations not accepted), http://www.oumisasaya.com . Price: Udon plates and soups, $7.50 to $12; udon-suki, $18 to $28; dinner entrees, $5.50 to $14; salads and sides, $1.20 to $9.50. Best dishes : Sesame chicken tempura udon, tororo udon with beef and dou ban jiang , curry udon soup with shrimp and mochi tempura, udon- suki , beef and vegetable tagine.
July 8, 2010
Kabocha squash kimpura Note: This is a flavorful batter that benefits from the nutty flavor of the buckwheat. The cornstarch adds a little crispiness, but you can make it without it too. This batter works for both vegetables and seafood. Soba-ko or buckwheat soba flour can be found at Granada Market and Nijiya Market in West Los Angeles and other Japanese markets. This recipe requires a 4-quart pot, preferably cast iron, or a tempura frying pan. 1/4 kabocha squash (from a whole squash quartered lengthwise)
April 14, 2004
I am an avid follower of your section and enjoy your opinions/ideas very much. However, the very first four words, "sticky short-grained rice," in the last paragraph of Barbara Hansen's article ("Ordering off the Menu," March 31) struck me funny, and I would like to introduce a Japanese word, gohan, to you. Gohan is that "sticky short-grained rice" and it is the essential ingredient in Japanese meals. My wish is that gohan becomes a common term, like teriyaki and tempura. Paul Miki Los Feliz