March 26, 1990 |
Although some locals are still debating the merits of last fall's Soviet Arts Festival, introducing Soviet Georgian conductor Jansoug Kakhidze to the city was one achievement beyond cavil. The white-haired maestro won kudos for conducting the festival-opening opera "Boris Godunov," and he continued his impressive show in a last-minute substitution for an indisposed Soviet colleague on one of the San Diego Symphony's festival programs.
July 16, 2003 |
You'd think granita would be a regular summertime craze, particularly around here, with our wealth of summer fruit. It's cold and sweet, lighter than ice cream, easier to make than sorbet and just darned pretty to look at. You don't even need any special equipment for it -- a baking dish, a freezing compartment and a fork will do the job. The Italian name means "grainy," because the fruit juice or other liquid is broken up several times as it freezes,...
August 12, 2010 |
This is Beverly Hills?, I wondered, oh so many years ago when a friend took me to lunch in a sweet little house with a fireplace on South Beverly Drive. Chez Mimi later moved to Santa Monica, and Urth Caffé now dispenses soy lattes and iced green tea from that rose-covered cottage. Back then (and now), South Beverly Drive didn't seem fancy at all, more like a small-town Main Street where you'd find shops selling nightgowns and one-piece swimming suits, baseball cards and birthday gifts.
November 18, 2009 |
Thanksgiving is a holiday built on tradition. And, much to my surprise, I seem to have found a new one of my own -- writing about dry-brined turkey. After more than 20 years of Thanksgiving stories, I didn't think there was much left that could be said about turkey. But three years ago I wrote about a new technique I'd fallen in love with. And judging from the hundreds of happy e-mails I received, readers shared that affection. I tweaked it a bit last year, to similar reaction, and now here I am writing about it again, with even more improvements.
November 17, 2011
This is the bird everyone has been talking about. Inspired by the famous roast chicken by Judy Rodgers, chef at San Francisco's beloved Zuni Café, it's as simple as can be. No more pale, under-seasoned birds. No more finding room in the refrigerator for huge pails of brine. Salt it, bag it and forget it (well, give it a rub once a day just to be sure the salt is evenly distributed). The resulting turkey is moist, gloriously browned and perfectly seasoned all the way to the bone. Begin the brining the Sunday evening before Thanksgiving and give it several hours in the refrigerator uncovered at the end to thoroughly dry the skin.
January 31, 2007 |
THANKS to the popularity of fried calamari, almost everyone has eaten squid, even if very few people have cooked it. Really, there's not that much to it. The most important thing you have to know is that squid is almost pure muscle, with little fat. That means it cooks very quickly and overcooks almost as fast. If you've ever had calamari with the texture of rubber bands, it was because someone wasn't paying attention and let it cook a minute or two too long.
June 27, 1991 |
Paul Prudhomme is happy. "I'm mobile. I work 18 hours a day. I wake up every morning feeling wonderful," he says. But about two years ago, at 485 pounds, he was not so happy. "I got to an uncomfortable weight and I had to do something," he says. First, he tried powdered diet products and even got creative with them, inventing new recipes. "I got sick of it and decided it was time to get serious," he says. "With my ability to cook, I changed to food."
February 16, 2001 |
At Regen Projects, 17 poster-size paintings on paper by Lari Pittman fill the gallery to overflowing with a masterfully designed riot of color, shape, line and texture. There's no escape from these sizzling pictures of modern men, caught up in maelstroms of socially engineered emotions. Each piece is a densely interwoven web that features a stylish urbanite's stylized head.
November 18, 2009 |
We've been writing about dry-brining turkeys for three Thanksgivings now and the response from readers has been overwhelming. Most say it's the best turkey they've ever made. But there are always some lingering questions. Here are answers to some of those most frequently asked. If you've got one that's not covered here, drop me a line at email@example.com and we'll add it to this list: Video: Food editor Russ Parsons shows you how to carve the turkey. How did the turkey get its name?