March 15, 2009 |
I was feeling lucky. That was my excuse for going to Siena in the dead of winter, when Tuscany is generally cold and rainy. But rules -- including those that govern the weather -- were made to be broken in Italy, I've found. In Rome, you can wake up on a winter morning with rain beating on the window, bundle up and go outside and find yourself sweating in your coat, wishing you had sunglasses instead of an umbrella.
July 28, 2002 |
The guidebook had let us down badly in the choice of a hotel at Lake Garda, and now we were heading south to Pistoia in Tuscany and certain doom. The next hotel on our itinerary had come from the same wretched book. "This place we're going to is so bad," I joked to my wife, Jennifer, "that the Italian government has tried to house refugees in it and they refuse to go." The decision to visit this less traveled part of Tuscany had been a gamble in more ways than one.
September 22, 1996 |
Fall comes swiftly to Tuscany, and you'll know it's arrived when the trees atop this city's ancient wall and along the streets begin shedding their leaves. In a matter of days, the trees will be barren and their branches will look like flimsy, grubby gossamer.
January 10, 1999 |
Arctic birds, Japanese snow monkeys and a solar eclipse--this could be an interesting year for you, if you take the right tour. For the sixth year, we've asked Ann Waigand, editor of the Educated Traveler newsletter, for a list of the 10 "thinking tours" that she finds most intriguing, of which many are sponsored by museums. Waigand's top 10 for 1999 follow, in calendar order. Note that prices are per person, based on double occupancy. Travelers should be sure they understand which meals and excursions are included (and excluded)
April 5, 1998 |
My husband Mischa and I zipped through the undulating Tuscan countryside in our rented apple green Opel. Suddenly in the luminous dusk, the red stone abbey of Monte Olivetto Maggiore soared out of the groves of pine, oaks and olives. After parking the car, we walked up to the monastery, one of Tuscany's most beautifully situated, eager to hear the Benedictine monks' Gregorian vespers, which wafted through the abbey's portal.
September 20, 1998 |
Fall in the region of Tuscany is a time of gracious fecundity, when vineyards are heavy with black fruit, plump figs fall from the trees and the forests are filled with porcini mushrooms the size of throw pillows. Honeyed light falls on scarlet-berried bushes and on paths littered with chestnuts glistening like polished lumps of mahogany.