October 20, 2012 |
When I am trying to explain the concept of modernist cooking to a friend who has experienced neither encapsulated olives nor edible menus printed with organic ink, I sometimes bring up the burgers concocted by Nathan Myhrvold, a software pioneer who has lately diversified into maximum-tech cooking, among other things. His recipe, which appears in his 2,400-page opus, "Modernist Cuisine," involves sous-vide , liquid nitrogen, a deep-fat fryer and homemade processed cheese, and is not much less complex, I suspect, than the directions for rebuilding a Porsche.
June 9, 2012 |
The cold fried chicken sandwich at Michael Voltaggio's ink.sack is one of the restaurant's bestsellers. The meat is cooked sous-vide with piment d'espelette and then breaded in corn flakes and fried. It's topped with crisp lettuce, pickles and tangy housemade ranch cheese and drizzled with a small-batch year-old hot sauce called Gindo's Spice of Life. Made by a local bartender and home chef named Chris Ginder, Gindo's Spice of Life has been generating buzz among local chefs who favor its fierce but forgiving heat and rich, well-balanced flavor.
March 2, 2013 |
Hinoki is a fragrant cypress most Japanese associate with extremely expensive bathtubs, popular with the wealthy because the wood is used to build the soaking tubs at onsen , Japanese hot springs. Hinoki wood is also used to build the counters of the most prestigious sushi bars; long, smooth planks that are sanded every day and given weekly baths of milk. Hinoki & the Bird, on the other hand, is the new Century City restaurant from David Myers, who became well-known as the auteur behind restaurant Sona until it closed in 2010 and who runs the Melrose Avenue brasserie Comme Ça and the South Coast Plaza pizzeria Ortica.
September 13, 2013 |
The new Tom Bradley International Terminal at Los Angeles International Airport is scheduled to open to the public Wednesday. The long-awaited terminal, now tricked out with the latest technology, cost $1.9 billion for 18 new gates, a great hall and more than 60 shops and eateries. But it's not clear that all amenities and new airline lounges at the LAX terminal will open on time, an airport spokeswoman said. Retail manager Westfield on Thursday was still determining which stores and restaurants would be ready.
March 16, 2012 |
Big changes have hit Little Osaka, the iconic Japanese neighborhood that runs along Sawtelle Boulevard in West L.A. Take, for example, Plan Check Kitchen & Bar. The 4-week-old restaurant serving gourmet burgers, American comfort food and curated cocktails is Sawtelle's first gastropub. The street has for decades been a Japanese restaurant row: sushi, curry, yakitori, Franco-Japanese small plates, izakaya fare and land-of-the-rising-sun snacks. In the days just before opening, Plan Check owner Terry Heller wondered half-jokingly, "Do you think I'm crazy not to open a sushi place here?"
August 25, 2012 |
This week, deputy Food editor Betty Hallock is all about shio koji : "The latest trendy cooking ingredient in Japan is a fungus. And that fungus is spreading. Professional and home cooks in Japan are crazy for it, and it's flying off the shelves at Japanese markets in the U.S., too. "They're using shio koji -- a fermented mixture of koji (rice innoculated with the special -- and safe -- mold Aspergillus oryzae), shio (sea salt) and water -- as a seasoning in place of salt for its powers of umami.
August 24, 2012 |
In the United States, Kit Kat bars are more or less Kit Kat bars. In Japan, they are chocolaty slabs of innovation. Among the dozen or so kinds of Japanese Kit Kats I've tried, I think my favorite were flavored with soy sauce, which gave the wafers an interesting jolt of umami. But the oddest new flavors may be those that appear in special-edition bottles of Japanese Pepsi, which over the last few years have included Pepsi flavored with chestnuts, cucumber, adzuki beans, and the fragrant extract from African baobob pods, although I suspect the latter may be less exotic than the tropical extracts that already show up in Pepsi.
April 9, 2010 |
The title is "Mad Men," but the Emmy-winning AMC series features some notable women as well, including L.A.'s own Elisabeth Moss. The onetime ballerina-in-training's role as copywriter Peggy Olson earned her an Emmy nomination for outstanding lead actress in a drama series in 2009, a year also significant for her marriage to another TV madman, "Saturday Night Live's" Fred Armisen. Here's how the newlyweds do SoCal. Life at the Tower It's always a special treat to stay at the Sunset Tower Hotel.
April 28, 2012 |
Wrinkly Chinese fermented black beans look as though they have just emerged from an archaeological site. Indeed, the salty, pungent little bits are an ancient Chinese staple. Made of black or yellow soybeans, they were once the only soy-based seasoning used all over China but nowadays are mostly employed in southern Chinese cooking. Called dou chi in Mandarin and dul see in Cantonese, you may know them as the punchy dark flecks in the sparerib nuggets at dim sum. But fermented black beans are remarkably versatile.
September 24, 2012 |
Sam Nazarian is taking his popular Katsuya Japanese restaurant brand global. The Los Angeles night-life impresario just signed a deal with behemoth retail franchise operator M.H. Alshaya to develop 17 Katsuyas in the Middle East by 2017, with the first two scheduled to open in Kuwait and Dubai in 2013. The announcement underscores how quickly Nazarian, founder and chief executive of SBE hospitality group, is pushing his company's key brands both nationally and internationally.