Umbria Italy

About 60 miles outside Rome, surrounded by gentle, green hills, lies the medieval mountaintop town of Todi. Outside Todi lies the hamlet of Asproli, a bucolic collection of old stone farmhouses, sleeping dogs and olive trees that march in long lines toward the horizon. Asproli, like all of Umbria, is not a large place, not a busy place, not a new place. But it is a fine place to begin a ramble through the Italian countryside, which I did in June.

The best way to Rome From LAX, From LAX, American, Lufthansa, Air France, British and United offer connecting service (change of plane) to Rome. Restricted round-trip fares begin at $500, excluding fees and taxes. Orvieto is about 60 miles from Rome. TELEPHONES To call the numbers below from the U.S., dial 011 (the international calling code), 39 (the country code for Italy), the regional code and the local number. WHERE TO STAY Hotel Virgilio, 5 Piazza Duomo, Orvieto; 0763 394937, http://www.orvietohotelvirgilio.com , shares the piazza with the 13th century cathedral.

I've heard often that the food in Umbria is as good as it is in the adjacent region of Tuscany, which is renowned for its culinary prowess. But perhaps because the Umbrians themselves prefer a low profile and seem shyer than their Tuscan neighbors, Umbria has remained rather unknown to--and significantly less unexplored by--Americans. This has resulted in restaurants that are less crowded and often less costly than those of their higher-profile Tuscan neighbors.

The anonymous stone building on the outskirts of Civitella, my Umbrian hilltop village, was a mystery to me. Every time I drove past, it was shut up and seemingly deserted. But on one moonless night in November, lights blazed through the dirt-encrusted windows, and tractors, trailers, little Fiat 500s and the three-wheeled trucks called Apé were strewn across the road outside. I stopped my car, pushed open the building's iron door and stepped into a room filled with the rush of warm air and the clanking of heavy machinery.

We spent four nights at this beautiful agriturismo and winery in Umbria. It has lovely guest apartments, a golf course, swimming pool, tennis courts and a restaurant in the middle of the vineyards. Rates are very reasonable for such a wonderful location, near Lake Trasimeno. It is owned by the daughter of Ferruccio Lamborghini, founder of Automobili Lamborghini. Agriturismo Lamborghini & Golf Club, 1 Soderi di Panicarola, Panicale; 011-39-075-835-0029, http://english.lamborghinionline.it . Rates from about $720 to $1,187 in July and August.

The best way to Rome From LAX, From LAX, American, Lufthansa, Air France, British and United offer connecting service (change of plane) to Rome. Restricted round-trip fares begin at $500, excluding fees and taxes. Orvieto is about 60 miles from Rome. TELEPHONES To call the numbers below from the U.S., dial 011 (the international calling code), 39 (the country code for Italy), the regional code and the local number. WHERE TO STAY Hotel Virgilio, 5 Piazza Duomo, Orvieto; 0763 394937, http://www.orvietohotelvirgilio.com , shares the piazza with the 13th century cathedral.

This blend of Merlot, Cabernet and Sangiovese (in about equal proportions) is deep garnet in color, round and soft in taste and loaded with the ripe, plummy fruit of the beautiful 1997 harvest, which winemakers are calling one of the great Italian vintages of the century. It's made by a respected young Umbrian enologist named Ricardo Coltarello, who has produced a terrific quaffing wine, bottled unfiltered, that is much better than its modest price suggests.

The anonymous stone building on the outskirts of Civitella, my Umbrian hilltop village, was a mystery to me. Every time I drove past, it was shut up and seemingly deserted. But on one moonless night in November, lights blazed through the dirt-encrusted windows, and tractors, trailers, little Fiat 500s and the three-wheeled trucks called Apé were strewn across the road outside. I stopped my car, pushed open the building's iron door and stepped into a room filled with the rush of warm air and the clanking of heavy machinery.

  2004 Terre de' Trinci Sagrantino di Montefalco "Ugolino" Montefalco is a vertiginous hill town in Umbria famous for Sagrantino di Montefalco, a full-bodied red made from the Sagrantino grape. The 2004 Ugolino from Terre de' Trinci is stupendous, a deep-flavored, fleshy Sagrantino lush with the tastes of blackberry and earth. Its tannins are big, but softened, and it has a finish that just doesn't let go. It's a big, gentle bear of a wine. Get baking: Have a favorite holiday cookie recipe?

The white grape Grechetto has a long history in Umbria in central Italy. It's an essential part of the blend for the region's best-known white, Orvieto. But winemakers in Todi, a medieval hill town near Perugia, use the native grape on its own to make Grechetto di Todi. One of the best is made by the Roccafiore estate. Fiorfiore, as it's called, is pale gold with a scent of tropical fruit and flowers. The 2009 is rich and round, but with a nice snap of acidity. It stands out for its elegance.

We spent four nights at this beautiful agriturismo and winery in Umbria. It has lovely guest apartments, a golf course, swimming pool, tennis courts and a restaurant in the middle of the vineyards. Rates are very reasonable for such a wonderful location, near Lake Trasimeno. It is owned by the daughter of Ferruccio Lamborghini, founder of Automobili Lamborghini. Agriturismo Lamborghini & Golf Club, 1 Soderi di Panicarola, Panicale; 011-39-075-835-0029, http://english.lamborghinionline.it . Rates from about $720 to $1,187 in July and August.

This blend of Merlot, Cabernet and Sangiovese (in about equal proportions) is deep garnet in color, round and soft in taste and loaded with the ripe, plummy fruit of the beautiful 1997 harvest, which winemakers are calling one of the great Italian vintages of the century. It's made by a respected young Umbrian enologist named Ricardo Coltarello, who has produced a terrific quaffing wine, bottled unfiltered, that is much better than its modest price suggests.

I've heard often that the food in Umbria is as good as it is in the adjacent region of Tuscany, which is renowned for its culinary prowess. But perhaps because the Umbrians themselves prefer a low profile and seem shyer than their Tuscan neighbors, Umbria has remained rather unknown to--and significantly less unexplored by--Americans. This has resulted in restaurants that are less crowded and often less costly than those of their higher-profile Tuscan neighbors.

About 60 miles outside Rome, surrounded by gentle, green hills, lies the medieval mountaintop town of Todi. Outside Todi lies the hamlet of Asproli, a bucolic collection of old stone farmhouses, sleeping dogs and olive trees that march in long lines toward the horizon. Asproli, like all of Umbria, is not a large place, not a busy place, not a new place. But it is a fine place to begin a ramble through the Italian countryside, which I did in June.

  2008 Arnaldo Caprai Grechetto "Grecante" Arnaldo Caprai is better known for his intense Montefalco rosso than for his whites, so this lyrical wine comes as a surprise. Made from 100% Grechetto, an indigenous grape, it is crisp and refreshing, all delicate flowers on the nose, with notes of lime and grapefruit. Who knew the vines around the Umbrian hilltop town could produce a knockout white like this? JOIN US: The L.A. Times hosts its Celebration of Food & Wine this Sunday, Sept.

If, like me, you haven't cottoned to the fact that it's the latter half of November, and that December starts in just over a week, listen up. If you're planning on a wine country trip in January, the Napa Truffle Festival   is coming up Jan. 18 to 21, the third such event. The festival celebrates Tuber melanosporum , the winter Périgord black truffle (not to be confused with the much less pungent and pricy summer truffle). Food writer and editor Colman Andrews will be speaking.