May 21, 2013 |
The tiny, high-end Marcassin Vineyard on the Sonoma Coast, known for its superb Chardonnay and Pinot Noir, has dealt itself a blow: “We are passing (probably permanently) on the 2008 Pinot Noirs,” writes John Wetlaufer, who owns the Sonoma Coast estate with his wife, the phenomenal winemaker Helen Turley, in his latest letter to those on the winery's mailing list. What the hey? The explanation, wildfires in 2008 caused smoke to cover most of Northern California for two months, according to ETS Laboratories, which has developed a test to screen grapes for smoke taint.
September 2, 2010 |
Defying the trend of generic internationalization in the wine world, Rueda in northern Spain has come back full circle to its unique local grape. Verdejo makes for one of the most delightful white wines of summer: aromatic and lively, with refreshing lime fruit and pretty jasmine notes. The price range is reasonable, about $9 to $20. No wonder Rueda is the only region in Spain where exports actually increased during the worldwide economic downturn of 2009. Verdejo's comeback is a feel-good story for people who don't want wine everywhere to be the same.
August 13, 1987 |
In some parts of the wine world, when a talented wine maker forsakes the vineyard region of his birth for another, it is likely to be regarded as a veritable act of treason. That is the risk Franco Giacosa took when he left his native Alba, in the heart of Barolo Piedmont country, to become the chief wine maker at Duca di Salaparuta Winery in Sicily, a region better known for Marsala.
April 8, 2010 |
The other night at Bar Pintxo in Santa Monica there was a wine dinner of sorts. Which is to say a number of tables were pushed together to form a single surface, and a dozen strangers gathered to share heaping plates of cured salame and Idiazábal cheese, razor clams drenched in lemon and parsley, braised lamb and spicy chorizo stew. By the end of the evening strangers were friends, and a chilly spring evening seemed much warmer. I couldn't help thinking how different a meal like this was from one in a French restaurant: no tablecloths, no gleaming silver, no froufrou service.
January 13, 2002
For weeks I've rushed to the Sunday Calendar listings, to "Moulin Rouge," to read again "a film that can't escape the defects of its virtues." What a marvelous phrase. I'm using it daily to describe restaurants, wines, books, autos, politicians. My wife threatens to leave me if I don't stop. I will try. But first I must know what the phrase means. I rented the movie for guidance. No luck. Please, Kenneth Turan, or someone, explain before she literally escapes the defects of my virtues.
July 14, 2011
Enjoy a dinner inspired by ancient Roman recipes and learn about culinary pleasures in the time of Caesar during At the Roman Table: A Culinary Adventure. Food historian Andrew Dalby speaks about the nature of power dining in ancient Rome, identifying great wines, local produce and luxuries that made up a fashionable dinner 2,000 years ago. The Getty Villa, 17985 Pacific Coast Highway, Pacific Palisades. 7-10 p.m. Thu. and Fri. $75 includes lecture, four-course dinner served family style and wine.
December 21, 1986 |
Pleasures of the Table by Florence Fabricant (Harry N. Abrams: 175 pp., illustrated). Beware! Make no mistake about this book. It's a beautiful volume with photos, mostly by Matthew Klein, that woo the senses. But, and this is a big "but," this book belongs on the kitchen bookshelf where it is handy for the cook, not in the living room. Based on the monthly column that food writer Florence Fabricant has written for Signature magazine over the years, the book offers a selection of menus that range from formal dinner parties to some delectable suggestions for dining alfresco.
August 23, 1998
I was in Los Angeles last fall and was able to catch your review of travel destinations in New England for fall foliage ("All Aboard for Fall," Sept. 7). I thought you might be interested in another travel destination that includes all the foliage splendor that the eyes can take in, as well as the best in arts and entertainment, accommodations and Colonial history. This place is Ithaca, N.Y., and the Finger Lakes region. I will admit I am partial to the area because I am a graduate of Cornell University in Ithaca.
January 10, 2013 |
Old Soul , the previously announced Jeremy Fox dinner series hosted by This Is Not a Pop-Up, has been canceled, but in its place is a roster of weeklong residencies from various chefs throughout January and beyond. The dinners take place every Thursday to Sunday at Square One Dining, starting Jan. 17 to 20 with James Trees' restaurant concept Treehouse. He's followed by a dinner series from Adam Gertler (Jan. 24 to 27), Bruce Kalman of the Churchill (Jan. 31 to Feb. 3), Tyler Wells of Handsome Coffee (Feb.